The Expeditions of Zebulon Montgomery Pike, Volume II (of 3) / Chapter 1 ITINERARY: UP THE MISSOURI AND OSAGE RIVERS, AND THROUGH KANSAS TO THE PAWNEE VILLAGE ON THE REPUBLICAN RIVER, JULY 15TH-SEPT. 30TH, 1806. | 9.09%/0/15881/coverbig.jpg?v=9b2af7239ce0c6ab9e059b0e666a9229)
two corporals, 16 privates and one interpreter.[I-2] We had also under our charge chiefs of the Osage and Pawnees, who, with a number of women and children, had been to Washington.
his day my boat swung around twice; once when we had a tow-rope on shore, which it snappe
eparated, and with very severe labor arrived late in the evening opposite th
e I wrote letters back to Belle Fontaine, whilst the Indians were crossing the river. A man by the name of Ramsay reported to the Indians that 500 Sacs, Ioways, and Reynards were at the mouth of Big Manitou [i. e., the band under Pashepaho (Stabber) and Quashquame (Lance)]. This gave them considerable uneasiness, and it took me some time to do away the impression it made u
ements.[I-8] After we had made our little arrangements we marched by land and joined the boats, which had sailed early [in charge of Sergeant Ballenger], at twelve o'clock. Two of the men being sick, I steered one boat and Mr. Henry the other, by which means we were en
never joining us again. At dinner time the sick man of my own boat came on board; I then went on board the other, and we continued to run races all day. Although this boat had
ch probably had fallen into the river. Passed one settlement on the north side, and, after turning the point to the south, saw two more houses on
much more than when at rest, as the tarpaulin could then cover all. We set sail at a quarter past four o'clock, and arrived at the village of La Charette at a little after the dusk of the evening. Here we found Lieutenant Wilkinson and Dr. Robinson with the Indians;
ts, dried our lading, and wro
and made good progress. Lieutenant Wilkinson steered one boat and I the other, in order to detach all the men on shore, with the Indians, that we could spar
ed, I was obliged to let Baroney steer his boat. We made an excellent day's journey, and encamped [on the south] five miles from [below] the Gasconade river.
past eight o'clock, at which place I determined to remain the day, as my Indians and foot people were yet
te taken by the Potowatamies, when they go to war against the Osage, it occasioned some alarm. Every morning we were awakened by the mourning of the savages, who commenced crying about daylight, and continued for the space of an hour. I made inquiry of my interpreter with respect to this, who informed me that this was a custom not only with those who had recently lost their relatives, but also with others who recalled to mind the loss of some friend, dead long since, and joined the other mourners purely from sympathy. They a
, who informed us that they had just left the Osage river, and that it was so low they could not ascend it with their canoe. We wrote letters and sent them back by them.[I-19] Dr
Breakfasted with them. About half past three o'clock encamped in sight of the Osage river. There being every appearance of rain, we halted thus early in order to give the Indians time to prepare temporary camps, and to secure our bag
hen proceeded on about six miles, where we waited for and crossed the Indians to the west shore; we then proceeded on to the first island, and encamped on the
He began by flogging one of the young men and was about to strike Sans Oreille's wife, but was stopped by him and told that he knew he had done wrong, but that the women were innocent. We then crossed them and embarked at half past eight o'clock. About twelve o'clock we found the Indians rafting the river, when the first chief of the Little Osage, called Tuttasuggy, or Wind, told
ave them about one or two gills of whisky, which intoxicated all of them. It commenced raining about one o'clock, and continued incessantly for three hours, which oblige
went with Dr. Robinson and Bradley. About two o'clock we returned, set sail, and having passed the fir
One of the Osages, who had left the party for the village, returned and reported that he had seen and heard strange Indians in the woods. This we considered as merely a pretext to come back. I this day lost my dog, and the
t it continuing to rain at intervals all day, the things were wetter at sundown than in the morning. We rolled them up and le
arks, and Brown went out to hunt. We killed four deer, the Indians two. Having reloaded the boats, we
ight. We encamped about 25 paces from the river, on a sand-bar. Near day I heard the sentry observe that the boats had better be brought in; I got up and found the water wi
ute. Finding our progress much impeded by our mast, I unshipped it and stripped it of its iron, and, after Lieutenant Wilkinson had carved our names on it, set it adrift, followed by the yards. This mast had been cut and made at [our wintering post on] Pine creek, Upper Mississippi. After proceeding some miles, w
tter about two miles from camp. After hunting some time on the west shore, we concluded to raft the river, which we effected with difficulty and danger, and hunted for some time,
. Dr. Robinson, who followed me, was on the point of treading on him, but by a spring avoided it. I then turned round and touched him with my ramrod, but he showed no disposition to b
vois creek] on the west.[I-28] About three miles above this river the Indians left us and informed me that, by keeping a little to the south and west, they woul
to its entire fall. We proceeded extremely well, passed the Saline [read Great Gravel[I-29]] river [of Pike, now Grand Auglaise creek] on the east, and encamped opposite La Belle Roche on the west shore. This day we passed
en about two feet during the night. At the confluence of the Youngar[I-31] with
ng ground, where there were eight houses, occupied last winter by [Blank], who had not been able to proceed any higher for want of water. Passed the Old Man's Rapids, below which, on the west shore, are some beautiful cliffs. Di
ht his wife up to the boats, and informed me that Sparks had encamped with them, but left them early to return in search of us. We proceeded after breakfast. Sparks arrived just at the moment we were embarking. The Indians traversing the country on the east had sent Sparks with Sans Oreille. About two o'clock split a plank in the
ddleston with me, I went out to hunt; after traveling about 12 miles we arrived at the river, almost exhausted with thirst. I here indulged myself by drinking plentifully of the water, and was rendered so extremely unwell by it that I was scarcely capable of pursuing my route to the camp. On arriving opposite it, I swam
purloined the cup, but supposed some other person had attached it to his baggage; but that, knowing it to be my soldier's, I requested him to deliver it up, or I should be obliged to take other measures to obtain it." This had the desired effect; for I certainly should have put my threats into execution, from this principle, formed from my experience during my intercourse with Indians, that if you have justice on your side, and do not enforce it, they universally
iately. Being much fatigued and the bank difficult of ascent, lay down in the cabin without supper and slept all night. It continued to rain. The man [Sparks] I left on shore arrived on
the river rose over the flat bar on which we were; this, if we had no other proof, would convince us we were near the head of the river, as the rain must have reached it. We made almos
d with three engagees of Mr. [Chouteau], who informed us that the Little Osage had marched a war-party against the Kans, and the Grand Osage a party against our citizens on the Arkansaw river. Wrote by them to the general[I-36] and all friends. Gave the poor fellows some w
er from the towns; they at the same time returning thanks to the Good God for having brought them once more together"-in short, the tout ensemble was such as to make polished society blush, when compared with those savages, in whom the passions of the mind, whether joy, grief, fear, anger, or revenge, have their full scope. Why can we not correct the baneful passions, without weakening the good? Sans Oreille made them a speech, in which he remarked: "Osage, you now see your wives, your brothers, your daughte
ilkinson. When we parted, after delivering the Indians their baggage, Sans Oreille put an Indian on board to hunt, or obey any other commands I might have for him. We stopped at eleven o
which is equal in size to the one on which we pursued our route. Waited to dine at the rocks called the Swallow's Nest, on the W. shore, above the forks. The batteaux having gained nearly half an hour, the crews are convinced that it is not the boat, but men who make the difference; eac
the first deputation of his nation who were forwarded to the seat of government by Governor Lewis. A particular relation of the event, no doubt, has been given by that gentleman. This chief had a son who accompanied me to the
houteau formerly had his fort [Fort Carondelet[I-41]], not a vestige of which was remaining, the spot being only marked by the superior growth of vegetation. Here the river-bank is one solid bed of stone-coal, just below which is a very shoal and rapid ripple [Kaw rapids, where wa
h plenty of water. Observed the road where the chiefs and Lieutenant Wilkinson crossed. We proceeded until one o'clock, when we were halted by a large drift quite across the river. Dispatched Baroney to the village of the Grand Osage, to procure horses to take our baggage nearer to the towns, and unloaded our boats. In about
ge of the prairie, when I was informed that three men had arrived from St. Louis sent by Manuel de Liza. I dispatched Lieutenant Wilkinson to the village with Baroney, who brought to camp the man [Jean Baptiste Duchouquette] who had charge of the others from St. Louis; he having no passport, I detained him until further consideration. Our reception by the Osage was flattering, and parti
ns of the deceased Osages were then delivered to them, the widow making the distribution. It must be remarked that I had merely requested Cheveux Blanche to come with his son, and receive the general's message; but instead of coming with a few chiefs, he was accompanied by 186 men, to all of whom we were obliged to give something to drink. When the council was over we mounted our horses, rode to the village, and halted at the quarters of the chief, where we were regaled with boiled pumpkins; then we went to two different houses, and were invited to many others, but declined, promising that I w
to send by express, and inclosed the deposition of Larme. In the afternoon we rode to the village of the Little Osage, and were received by our fellow-travelers with true hospitality. Returned in the evening, when a tremendous storm of rain,
eir Great Father, and the mode which I conceived most applicable to carry them into effect. Cheveux Blanche replied in a few words, and promised to give me a full reply to-morrow. Wind replied to the same amount; after which Cheveux Blanche addressed himself to Wind as follows: "I am shocked at your conduct, Tuttasuggy-you who have lately come from the States, and should have been wise; but you led the redeemed captives, with an officer of the United States, to your village, instead of bringing them through my town in the first instance." To this Wind made no reply, but left his seat shortly after, under pretense of giving some orders to his young men. I conceived th
illages, informing me that they wished to put them off until to-morrow. I then adjusted my instruments. Took equal alt
, I was so unfortunate as to miss the time of an immersion, and, although clear in the intermediate period, an emersion also. I was informed by Baroney that the Little Village had made up 11 horses for
ur request; but I will accompany you with two horses to carry provision for your voyage." The interpreter: "The Cheveux Blanche was ashamed to bring you this answer, but will again assemble his village and to-morrow come and give you the answer." I replied: "That I had made the demand without explanation, merely to let the Osage act agreeably to their inclination, in order that we might see what disposition they would exhibit toward us; but
s village he could only raise four horses, but that we should be accompanied by his son and son-in-law. I then expressed to him the difference of our expectations from the reality. He remaine
t me eight more to carry our baggage to the Pawnees. Sold the old batteau for $100 in merchandise, which I conceived infinitely preferable to leaving her to the uncertain safeguard of the India
m the Little Village and two from the Big Village. In the evening Lieutenant Wilki
d the general, and making arrangements for ou
binson and myself went to the Grand Village, at which we saw
ral's express.[I-47] In the afternoon we were visited by the principal men of the Little Village and the chief, to whom I
our horses, in order to fit our loads, as we expect
own, and the chief's wife sent another in its place. We left the place about twelve o'clock with 15 loaded horses,[I-48] our party consisting of two lieutenants, one doctor, two sergeants, one corporal, 15 privates, two interpreters, three Pawnees, and four chiefs of the
med by a young Indian that Mr. C. Chouteau had arrived at the towns. I conceived it proper for me to return, which I did, accompanied by Baroney, first to the Little Village; whence we were acco
e proceeded, and overtook our party at two o'clock. They had left their first camp about four miles. Our horses being much fatigued,
two horses back for the load. One of the Indians, being jealous of his wife, sent her back to the village. After making the necessary notes, Dr. Robinson and myself took our horses and followed the course of a little stream until we arrived at the Grand[I-51] river, which was distant about six miles. We here found a most delightful basin of water, of 25 paces' d
eille among the rest. I had given an order on the chiefs for the lost horse to be delivered to Sans Oreille's wife,
waited on this hill to breakfast, and had to send two miles for water. Killed a deer on the rise, which was soon roasting before the fire. Here another Indian wished to return and take h
creek that was almost dry. Descended it to the main [Little Osage] river, where we dined [vici
e head of a small creek, about half a mile from the water. D
ld have frequently afforded subsistence to the whole party. We halted at one o'clock and remained until four o'clock. Being told that we could not arrive at any water, we here filled our vessels. At five o'clock arrived at the dividing ridge, between the waters of the Osage and the Arkansaw, alias White river,[I-53] the dry branches of which interlock within 20 yar
was accommodated. At nine o'clock we came on a large fork [of Elm creek] and stopped for breakfast. Proceeded on and encam
erform the route. The reason I offered to prevent his going was ineffectual, and he departed with his hunter, who deprived us of one horse. His return left us without any chief or man of consideration, except the son of Belle Oiseau, who was but a lad. The former appeared to be a discontented young fellow, filled with self-pride; he certainly should have considered it as an h
ned to ascend this creek to the highest point of water, and strike across to a large river of the Arkansaw [watershed]. We ascend
r Vermilion] river. Stopped to breakfast on a small stream of the latter; after which we marched and encamped
iries. Encamped at night on a large branch of Grand rive
panthers. Encamped on the main [Cottonwood] branch of Grand [Neosho] river, which had very steep banks and was deep. Dr. Robinson, Bradley, and Baroney arrived after dusk, having killed three buffalo,
Marched again at half past two o'clock, and halted at five, intending to dispatch Dr. Robinson and one of o
e herds of buffalo, elk, and cabrie; and I have no doubt that one hunter could support 200 men. I prevented the men shooting at the game, not merely because of the scarcity of ammunition, but, as I co
[more exactly, from basin of the Cottonwood to that of the Smoky Hill]. This ridge was covered with a layer of stone, which was strongly impregnated with iron ore, and on the W. side of said ridge we found
until after two o'clock, when we marched and crossed two branches [main Gypsum and Stag creeks]. Encamped on a third. At the second [Gypsum] creek, a horse was d
ide, and is navigable in the flood seasons. We passed it six miles to a small branch to breakfast. Game getting scarce, our provision began t
e expected the people of the [Pawnee] village to meet us. We marched again at four o'clock. Our route being over a continued series of hills and hollows, we were until eight at ni
ssays, and in pricking on our arms with India ink some characters, which will frequently bring to mind our forlorn and dreary situation, as well as the happiest days of our life. In the rear of our encampment was a hill,
rairies; upon which we dispatched a hunter on horseback in pursuit of him, also some hunters on foot; before night they killed three buffalo, some of the best of which we brought in and jerked or dried by the fire.
ke, now Covert] creek, remarkably salt. Stopped at one o'clock on a fresh branch of the salt creek. Our interpreter having killed an elk, we sent out for som
e Indians were conspiring to desert us in the night and steal some of our horses, one of whom was her husband. We engaged her as our spy. Thus were we obliged to keep ourselves on our guard against our own companions
if he was disposed to desert, I should take care to retain his horse; that as for himself, he might leave me if he pleased, as I only wanted men with us." He replied "that he was a man, that he always performed his promises, that he had
Fork. [?] Met a Pawnee hunter, who informed us that the chief had left the village the day after the doctor arrived, with 50 or 60 horses and many people, and had taken his course to the north of our route; consequently we had missed each other. He likewise informed us that
horses fell into the water and wet his load. Halted at ten o'clock on a branch of this fork. We marched at half past one o'clock, and encamped at sundown on a stream [Bu
ed them out in search of us. Before three o'clock we were joined by several Pawnees; one of them wore a scarlet coat, with a small medal of General Washington, and a Spanish medal also. We encamped at sunset on a middle-sized branch [White Rock creek], and were joined by
very large road on which the Spanish troops had returned, and on which we
s name was Caracterish. He was accompanied by his two sons and a chief by the name of Iskatappe. The Osage were still seated; but Belle Oiseau then rose, came forward with a pipe, and presented it to the chief, who took a whiff or two from it. We then proceeded; the chief, Lieutenant Wilkinson, and myself in front; my sergeant, on a white horse, next with the colors; then our horses and baggage, escorted by our men, with the Pawnees on each side, running races, etc. When we arrived on the hill over the town we were again halted, and the Osage seated in a row; when each Pawnee who
ost came to actual hostilities on the frontiers of Texas and the Orleans territory. At this time, when matters bore every appearance of coming to a crisis, I was fitting out for my expedition from St. Louis, where some of the Spanish emissaries in that country transmitted the information to Majar. Merior [sic] and the Spanish council at that place, who immediately forwarded the information to the then commandant of Nacogdoches, Capta
Major Sparks[I-72] and Mr. [Thomas] Freeman have missed the party from Nacogdoches, under the command of Capt
ountry from the frontiers of the province of New Mexico to
ns the commanding officer bore flags, a commission, grand medal, and four mules; and with all of them he had to renew the chains
ragoons of the regular service, and at Santa Fe, the place where the expedition was fitted out, he was joined by 500 of the mounted militia of that province, armed after the manner described by my notes on that subject, and completely equipped with ammunition, etc., for six months; each man leading with them (by order) two horses and one mule, the whole number of their beasts was 2,075. They descended the Red river 233 leagues; met the grand bands of the Tetaus, and held councils with them; then struck off N. E., and crossed the country to the Arkansaw, where Lieutenant Malgares left 240 of his men with the lame and tired horses, while he proceeded on with the rest to the Pawnee republic. Here he was met by the chiefs and warriors of the Grand Pawnees; held councils with the two nations and presented them the flags, medals, etc., which were destined for them. He did not proceed to
r provisions. About three o'clock in the afternoon 12 Kans arrived at the village, and informed Baroney that they had come to meet us, hearing that we were to be at the Pawnees' village. We pitche
e, June 15th, 1806, and three other chiefs, to all of whom we gave a dinner. I then made an appropriate present to each, after which Lieutenant Wilki
ipe of peace. Two of the Kans agreed to accompany us. We received a visit from the chi
bserve here, in case they should never be returned, that the Spaniards had left several of their flags in this village, one of which was unfurled at the chief's door the day of the grand council; and that among various demands and charges I gave them was, that the said flag should be delivered to me, and one of the United States' flags be receive
the staff which had lately borne the standard of his Catholic Majesty. This gave great satisfaction to the Osage and Kans, both of whom decidedly avow themselves to be under American protection. Perceiving that every face in the council was clouded with sorrow, as if some great national calamity were about to befall them, I took up the contested colors, and told them "that as they had shown themselves dutiful children in acknowledging their great American father, I did not wis
urbance had taken place in the village, owing to one of the young Pawnees, Frank, who lately came from the United States, having taken the wife of an Osage and run away with her.

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