f he was not going on with me to Santa Fe. He appeared confused and said, No; that his orders were so positive as to the safe conduct and protection of my men, that he dare not go an

ad not acted with candor; but that it wa

uth. We proceeded nine miles further, when we crossed the main branch of that stream, which was now bearing nearly west toward [or east from] the main chain of the third chai

d his services in secreting papers, etc. I took him at his word, and for my amusement thought I would try him; so I gave him a leaf or two of my journal, copied, which mentioned the time of my sailing from Belle Fontaine, and our force. This I charged him to guard very carefully and give to me after the investigation of my papers at Santa Fe. This day we saw a herd of wild horses. The Spa

jo Caliente], some time in the afternoon. The distance was about 45 miles. The difference of climate was astonishing; after

ascent on one side, where there are spouts to carry off the water of the melting snow and rain when it falls; which, we were informed, had been but once in two years previous to our entering the country. Inside of the inclosure were the different streets of houses of the same fashion, all of

hich was copied from the Mexicans, is now danced in the first societi

yards apart, each affording sufficient water for a mill-seat. They appeared to be impregnated with copper, and were more t

nd destroyed by the Tetaus. We were frequently stopped by the women, who invited us into their houses to eat; and in every place where we halted a moment there was a contest who should be our hosts. My poor lads who had been frozen were conducted home by old men, who would cause their daughters to dr

s above its junction with the Aqua Caliente, as the latter was in its whole course from the village of that name. From where they form a junction it was about 15 miles to the Rio del Norte,

escort, received him in a street and embraced him, all the poor creatures who stood round strove to kiss the ring or hand of the holy father; for myself, I saluted him in the usual style. My men were conducted in

to endeavor to obtain some confession or acknowledgment of sinister designs in my having appeared on the frontiers, and some confidential communications which might implicate me. As he had been rather insolent in his inquiries, I ordered my men to shut and fasten the door. I then told him that I believed him to be an emissary sent on purpose by the governor, or some person, to endeavor to betray me; that all men of that description were scoundrels, and never should escape punishment, whilst I possessed the power to chastise them-immediately ordering my men to seize him, and cautioning him, at the same time, that, if he cried out, or made the least resistance, I would be obliged to make use of the saber which I had

s the same man on whom Robinson had a claim. He returned into the priest's house with me, and, instead of making any complaint, he in reply to their inquiries of who I was, etc., informed them that when he left Louisiana I was governor of the Illinois. This I presume

s rather an immoderate use of the refreshments allowed me, produced an attack of something like ch

uage. As I neither had a natural turn for botany sufficient to induce me to puzzle my head much with the Latin, nor understood Castilian, I enjoyed but little of the lectures which he continued to give me for nearly two hours on t

as well as hundreds who surrounded us, appeared more surprised at the effect of the instrument than any nation of savages I was ever among. Here an idea struck me as extraordinary-how a man who appeared to be a perfect master of the ancient languages, a botanist, mineralogist, and chemist, should be so ignorant of the powers of reflection and the first principles of mathematics. But my

ulation consisted principally of civilized Indians, as indeed does that of all the v

f a priest, who, understanding that I would not kiss his hand, would not present it to me. The conduct and behavior of a young priest who came in was such as in our country would have been amply sufficient

ok coffee. From this village [Pojoaque] it was 17 miles to another [Tesuque], of 400 civilized Indians. Here we changed horses and prepared for entering the capital [Santa Fé[I'-8]], which we came in sight of in the evening. It i

The public square is in the center of the town; on the north side of it is situated the palace, as they term it, or government house, with the quarters for guards, etc. The other side of the square is occupied by the clergy and public officers. In general the houses have a shed before the front, some of which have a flooring of brick; the consequence is that the streets are very narrow, say in general 25 fe

Do you spe

Yes,

to reconnoiter ou

ed to reconno

what charac

racter, an officer of

Robinson-is he atta

e.

. Do you

n of the governor induced me to believe war must have been declared, and that if it were known Dr. Robinson had accompanied me, he would be treated with gr

How many m

. Fi

this Robinson

t he does not belong to my party, and shall a

n did you lea

July

think you ma

. No

lomew to his house; come here again at

e of my friend Bartholomew, who

had been taken possession of by his guard. He expressed surprise, immediately ordered it in, and also sent for one Solomon Colly, formerly a sergeant in our army, and one of the unfortunate company of [Captain Philip] Nolan. We were seated, when he ordered Colly to demand my name, to which I replied. He then demanded in what province I was born. I answered in English, and then addressed his Excellency in French, and told him that I did not think it necessary to enter into such a catechising; that if he would be at the pains of reading my commi

is hand, for the first time, and said he was happy to be acquainted with me as a man of honor and a gentleman; tha

ments were intrusted to the care of my men, and I found that the inhabitants were treating the men with liquor, I was fearful they would become intoxicated, and through inadvertency betray or discover the papers. I had therefore obtained several of

iscay, to appear before the commandant-general. He added: "You have the key of your trunk in your own possession; th

ahua we must be conside

r. By n

my men without my knowledge; are

can receive t

d three or four hundred leagues out of my

but I will give you a certificate from und

ss you a letter on

Anthony D'Almansa, with a detachment of dragoons, who will accompany you to where the remainder of your escort is no

ou not think it was a greater infringement of our territory to send 600 miles in the Pawnees', than

do not und

further explanati

mew and wrote my letter to his Excellency, which I

understood that it was calculated that the expenses of the party to Chihuahua would be defrayed by the United States. I also received by the same hands, from his Excellency, a shirt and neck-cloth, with his compliments, wishing me to accept of them, "as they had b

; conceiving that which would secure the feet and legs from the cold to be preferable to any less indispensable portion of our dress. Thus, when we presented ourselves at Santa Fe, I was dressed in a pair of blue trousers, mockinsons, blanket coat, and a cap made of scarlet cloth lined with fox-skin; my poor fellows were in leggings, breech cloths and leather coats, and there was not a hat in the whole party. This appearance was extremely mortifying to us all, especially as soldiers;

mmandant-general of the internal provinces and the Marquis Caso Calvo, who had given permission to Mr. [William] Dunbar to explore the Ouchata [Washita], contrary to the general principles of their government; in consequence of which the former had made representations against the latter to

r discouraged. As I was about leaving the public square, poor Colly, the American prisoner, came

d a bottle in his cochmelies [read cojinillos], a small leather case attached to the saddle for the purpose of carrying small articles.[I'-11] We were accompanied by my friend Bartholomew. We ascended a hill and galloped on until about ten

o sleep, my friend and myself sat up for some hours, he explaining to me their situation, the great desire they felt for a change of affairs and an open trade with the United States. I pointed out to him with chalk on the floor the geographical connection and route from North Mexico and Louisiana, and finally gave him a certifica

give them the brightest coloring; he being enthusiastic in their favor from his many conversations with me, and drawing comparisons with his own country. What appeared to the old veteran most extraordinary was that we ever changed our president. I was obliged to draw his powers on a nearer affinity with those of a monarch than they really

ew, and could not avoid shedding t

a silver head and black tassel. On our arrival at the public house Captain D'Almansa was waited on by the governor, cap in hand, to receive his orders as to furnishing our quarters and ourselves with wood, water, provisions, etc. The house itself contained nothing but bare walls and small grated windows, which brought to my recolle

e patron of the village. We then ascended into the gallery, where the choir are generally placed. In an outside hall was placed another image of the saint, less richly ornamented, where the populace repaired daily and knelt to return thanks for benefactions received, or to ask new favors. Many young girls, indeed, chose the time of our visit to be on their knees

follows: the pillars made of neat woodwork, something similar to a crate, and in the form of a keel-boat, the sharp end or bow to the current; this crate or butment was filled with stone, in which the river lodged sand, clay, etc., until it had become of

or its administrators. As to government and religion, Father Rubi displayed a liberality of opinion and a fund of knowledge which astonished me. He showed me a statistical table on which he had, in a regular manner, taken the whole province of New Mexico by villages, beginning at Tous [Taos], on the northwest, and ending with Valencia on the south, giving their latitude, longitude, and population, whether natives or Spaniards, ci

e," replied the other; "but you are an Indian of the nation of Keres, are you not?" "Yes." "Well, the Utahs are Indians also?" "Yes." "But still you do not understand them, they speaking a different language." "True," replied the Indian. "Well," said the old gentlem

e of his parishioners was at the point of death, a

hand, left us. Crossed the river and passed two small hamlets and houses on the road to the village of St. Dies,[I'-15]

to another, until he purchased them, at that time infants; they could recollect neither their names nor language, but, concluding they were my countrywomen, he ordered them to embrace me as a mark of their friendship, to which they appeared nothing loath. We then sat down to dinner, which consisted of various dishes, excellent wines, and, to crown all, we were waited on by half a dozen of those beautiful girls who, like Hebe at the feast of the gods, converted our wine to nectar, and with their ambrosial breath shed incense on our cups. After the cloth was removed some time, the priest beckoned me to follow him, and led me into his sanctum sanctorum, where he had the rich and majestic images of various saints, and in the midst the crucified Jesus, crowned with thorns, with rich rays of golden glory surrounding his

omen, and children, of all ages and sexes, at the joyful labor which was to crown with rich abundance their future harvest and insure them plenty for the ensuing year. Those scenes brought to my recollec

ut not more than three feet deep and excellent fording. At Father Ambrosio's was the only chart we saw in the province that

Norte, pale, emaciated, with uncombed locks and beard of eight months' growth, but with fire, unsubdued enterprise, and fortitude. The change was indeed surprising. I started back and exclaimed, "Robinson!" "Yes." "But I do not know you," I replied. "But I know you," he exclaimed; "I would not be unknown to you here, in this land of tyranny and oppression, to

received him with a significant smile, as much as to say, "I knew this." We then marched out to the place where the soldiers were encamped, not one of whom would recognize him, agreeably t

we departed early, leaving my arms and baggage at the commandant's, he promising to have them forwarded to me at the city. On our arrival at Santa Fe, the governor received me with great austerity at first, entered into an examination of my business, and took possession of all my papers. After all this was explained, he ordered me to a room where the officers were confined when under an arrest, and a non-commissioned officer to attend me when I walked out into the city, which I had free permission to do. I was supplied with provisions from the governor's table, who had promised he would write to Baptiste Lalande to come down and answer to the claim I had against him; whose circumstance I had apprised myself of. The second day the governor sent for me, and informed me that he had made inquiry as to the abilities of Lalande to discharge the debt, and found that he possessed no property; but that at some future period he would secure the money for me. To this I made a spirited remonstrance, as an infringement of our treaties and a protection of a refugee citizen of the United States against his creditors. But it had no other effect than to obtain me an invitation to dinner, and rather more respectful treatment than I had hitherto received from his Excellency; who, being slightly afflicted with dropsy, requested my advice as to his case. For this I prescribed a regimen and mode of treatment which happened to differ from the one adopted by a monk and practicing physician of the place, and thus brought on me his enmity and ill offices. The ensuing day I was ordered by the governor to hold myself in readiness to proceed to the internal parts of the country, to which I agreed; determining not to leave the country in a clandes

use. He had been persuaded to tarry all night, provided it was agreeable to me, as our host wished Robinson to remain until the next day. With this proposition I complied, in order t

ce. When we left this village the priest sent a cart down to carry us over, as the river was nearly four feet deep. When we approached the village of St. Fernandez[I'-19] we were met by Lieutenant Malgares, accompanied by two or three other officers; he received with the most manly frankness and the politeness of a man of the world. Yet my feelings were such as

ty Castillian pride, but much of the urbanity of a Frenchman; and I will add my feeble testimony to his loyalty, by declaring that he was one of the few officers or citizens whom I found who were loyal to their king, who felt indignant at the degraded state of the Spanish monarchy, and who deprecated a revolution or separation of Spanis

the village of St. Fernandez, where I propose giving a fandango,

] Don Fa

ns the degraded state of the common people. In the evening, when the company arrived, th

d I will have nothing to do with it." I bowed assent; and I will only add that the condition was scrupulously adhered to, as I was bound by every tie of military and national honor, and, let me add, gratitude, not to abuse his high confidence in the honor of a soldier. He further added that "Robi

f a citizen, where we dined; after which we separated. I wrote by the captain to the governor in French, and to Father Rubi in English. D'Almansa presented me with h

er was the commandant's tent. Thus, in case of an attack on the camp, there were ready-formed works to fight from. Malgares' mode of living was superior to anything we have an idea of in our army; having eight mules loaded with his common camp equipage, wines, confectionery, etc. But this only serv

he same [W.] side, Sibilleta[I'-21] is situated on the east side, and is a regular square, appearing like a large mud wall on the outside, the doors, w

not being well, took medicine. The village we stayed at last night being the last, we entered the wilderness and the road b

te there on their return. They go out in February and return in March; a similar expedition goes out in the autumn, but during the other parts of the year no citizen travels the road, the couriers excepted. At the pass [El Paso] of the Rio del Norte they meet and exchange packets, when both return to their own provinces. Met a caravan of 50 men and probably 200 horses, loaded with goods for New Mexico. Halted at twelve o'clock

saw many deer. Halted at eleven o'clo

d him. Being mounted on an elegant horse of Malgares', I joined in the chase, and notwithstanding their superior horsemanship overtook the horse, caught his bridle, and stopped

r two days' journey bearing due south, the river here taking a turn southwest; by the river it is five days to where the roads meet. We marched at four o'clock, and eight miles below crossed the river to

ten o'clock. Made 28 miles, the route

mountain, and the Mountain of the Dead.[I'-27] Came on a trail of the appearance of 200 horse

n tracks; also, the trail of a large party of horses, supposed to be Spanish troops in pursuit of the Indians. Marched down

] fresh sign of Indians, also of a party of horse

in road [continuing from the Jornada del Muerto], on a large flat pr

o'clock; halted for the day.[I'-31] Vegetation began to be discove

, who was a merchant and a planter; he possessed in the vicinity of the town 20,000 sheep and 1,000 cows. We were received in a most hospitable manner by Don Pedro Roderique Rey, the lieutenant-governor, and F