e very candidly told us that the Spaniards wished to have gone further into our country, but he induced them to give up the idea; that they had listened to him an

t my road had been smooth, with a blue sky over our heads. I had not seen any blood in our path; but he must know that the young warriors of his great American father were not women, to be turned back by words; that I should therefore proceed, and if he thought proper to stop me, he could attempt it; but we were men, well armed, and would s

the same time that they excited my laughter. Attempted to trade for horses, but could not succeed. In the night we were alarmed by some savages coming near our camp at full speed; but they retreated equally rapidly, on being hailed with fierceness by our sen

commenced. Traded for some ho

souri to the village. They gave us information that Captains Lewis and Clark,[II-1] with all their people, had desce

orses. Preparing to march,

II-2] Purchasing horses and pr

pt compact, and marched by a road round the village, in order that, if attacked, the savages would not have their houses to fly to for cover. I had given orders not to fire until within five or six paces, and then to charge with the bayonet and saber, when I believe it would have cost them at least 100 men to have exterminated us, which would have been necessary. The village appeared all to be in motion. I galloped up to the lodge of the ch

a heavy burden; yet all the evil I wished the Pawnees was that I might be the instrument, in the han

age men, and one woman, making 25 warriors. We marched out and encamped on a small branch [

rched at ten o'clock, and at four o'clock came to the place where the Spanish troops encamped the first night they left the Pawnee village. Their encampment was circular, having only small fires round the circle t

lock we found the forks of the Spanish and Pawnee roads, and when we halted at twelve o'clock, we were overtaken by the s

the road. I told him that he did not speak the truth, and informed the chief that we never suffered a thing of ever so little value to be taken without liberty. At this time the prairie was covered with his men, who began to encircle us around, and Lieutenant Wilkinson with the troops had gained half a mile on the road. The Indian demande

ife, I saw animals slaughtered by the true savages with their original weapons, bows and arrows; they buried the arrow up to the plume in the animal. We took a piece of meat and pursued our party; we overt

into camp, the sentinel challenged, it being dark; they immediately, on seeing him bring his piece to the charge, supposing he was about to fire on them, advanced to give him their hands; he, however, not well discerning their motions, was on the point of firing; but being a cool, collected little fellow, called

y. We left a large ridge on our left, and at sundown crossed it.... [?[II-7]] From this place we had an extensive view of the southwest; we observed a creek at a distance, to which I meant to proceed. The doctor, interpreter, and myself arr

h was in sight. Whilst we halted five Pawnees came to our camp and brought some bones of a horse which the Spanish troops had been obliged to eat at their encampment on this creek. We took up our line of

Proceeded at eleven o'clock; and crossing the [Grand Saline] river two or three times, we passed two camps where the Spanish troops had halted. Here they appeared to have remained some days, their roads being so much blended with the traces of the buffalo that we lost them entirely. This was a mortifying stroke, as we had reason to calcula

ring off, we raised our camp [and crossed the Smoky Hill river]; after which we marched seven miles and e

ge between the Kans and Arkansaw rivers.[II-10] Arrived on a branch of the latter at one o'clock; continued down it in search of water until after dusk, when we found a pond on the

ock we commenced our line of march, and at five o'clock Dr. Robinson and myself left the party at a large [Walnut[II-11]] creek, having pointed out a distant wood to Lieutenant Wilkinson for our encampment, in order to search some distance up it for the Spanish trace. Killed two buffalo and left par

lves at them, notwithstanding the precautions taken to keep them off. Cooked some marrow-bones and again mounted our horses, and proceeded down the creek to their junction. Finding

ot only for their personal safety, but for fear of the failure of the national objects intended to be accomplished by the expedition. Our own situation was not the most agreeable, not having more than four rounds of ammunition each, and being 400 miles in the n

nson, who, with all the party, was greatly concerned for our safety. The Arkansaw, on the party's arrival, had not water in it six inches deep, and the stream was not more than 20 feet wide; but the rain of the two days covered all the bottom of the river, which in this place is 450 yards from bank to bank. These are not more than four feet in height, bordered b

passage over [from the N. to the S. bank]; we consequently made it good by ten o'cl

brie. Discharged our guns at a mark, the best shot a prize of one tent and a pair of shoes. Our only dog was standing at the

o the entrance of the three last creeks we had crossed on our route; but meeting with

ed and informed us that they could not find the buffalo which we had killed on the prairie. They all arrived before noon. In the afternoon we scaffolded some meat, and

d Baroney and our two hunters to kill some buffalo, to obtain the skins for canoes. We ascended the river about 20 miles to a large branch [Pawnee fork[II-13]] o

hwest, and they no doubt kept more to the west from the head of one branch to another. We returned and on our way killed some prairie-squirrels [Cynomys ludovicianus], or wishtonwishes,

ke use of the herbage as food, I cannot pretend to determine. The latter opinion I think entitled to a preference, as their teeth designate them to be of the graminivorous species, and I know of no other substance which is produced in the vicinity of their positions on which they could subsist; and they never extend their excursions more than half a mile from the burrows. They are of a dark brown color, except their bellies, which are white. Their tails are not so long as those of our gray squirrels, but are shaped precisely like theirs; their teeth, head, nails, and body are the perfect squirrel, except that they are generally fatter than that animal. Their villages sometimes extend over two and three miles square, in which there must be innumerable hosts of them, as there is generally a burrow every ten steps in which there are two or more, and you see new ones partly excavated on all the borders of the town. We killed great numbers of them with our rifles and found them excellent meat, after they were exposed a night or two to the frost, by which means the rankness acquired by their su

the day in writing, and preparing for

ion of corn by way of distinction of t

oute to that place complete, in order that if we were lost, and he arrived in safety, we might not have made the tour without some benefit to our country. He took with him, in corn and meat, 21 day

at ten o'clock, having one skin canoe, made of four buffalo skins and two elk skins, which held three men besides himself and one Osage. In his wooden canoe were one soldier, one Osage, and their baggage; one other soldier marched on shore.[II-16] We parted with "God bless you" from both parties; they

to surround them, but they soon cleared our fleetest coursers. One appeared to be an elegant horse. These were the first wild horses we had seen. Two or three hours before night struck the Spanish road; and, as it was snowing, halted and encamped the party at the first woods on the bank of the river. The doctor and myself then forded it, the ice runn

count of the ice, to the Spanish camp, where we took a large circuit in order to discover the Spanish trace, and came in at a point of woods south of the river, where we found our party encamped. We discovered also that the Spanish troops

lock, on the Spanish road. Encamped, sun an hour high, after

on tasting it found it to be salt; this gave in my mind some authenticity to the report of the prairie being covered for leagues. Discov

the party, a band of cabrie came up among our horses, to satisfy their curiosity; we could not resist the temptation of killing two, although we had plenty of meat. A

came immediately up near us, making the earth tremble under them; this brought to my recollection a charge of cavalry. They stopped and gave us an opportunity to view them; among them there were some very beautiful

neying, when the chase began, which we continued about two miles, without success. Two of our horses ran up with them; but we could not take them. Returned to camp. I have since laughed at our folly; for taking wild horses in that manner is scarcely ever attempted, even with

horses, etc., all traveling south. The river bottoms full of salt ponds; gras

e river to be covered with animals; which, when we came to them, proved to be buffalo cows and calves. I do not think it an exaggeration to say there were 3,000 in one view. It is worthy of

ite side of the river. I took post on a hill, and sent some horsemen over, when a scene took place which gave a lively representation of an engagement. The herd of buffalo being divided into separate bands covered the prairie

d we feasted sumptuously on the choice morsels. I will not attempt to describe the droves of animals we now saw on our route; suffice it to sa

ay by on the morrow, in order to recruit our horses. Killed three co

and our situation very eligible, we halted

ed. On our arrival at the camp, found it to consist of 96 fires, from which a reasonable conclusion might be drawn that there were from 600 to 700 men. We thi

e river itself much narrower and crooked. Our horses growing weak; two gave out; bring them along

me days, as we conjectured, to lay up meat, previously to entering the Tetau country, as the buffalo evidently began to grow much less numerous. Finding the impossibility of performing the voyage in

which entirely gave out. Missed the Spanish ro

vered very fresh signs of Indians, and one of our hunters informed me he saw a man on horseback, ascending a ravine on our left. Discovered signs of war-par

the man was supposed to have been seen, but could make no important discovery. Marched

eep creeks[II-35] and many high points

d on the hill they with one accord gave three cheers to the Mexican mountains.[II-36] Their appearance can easily be imagined by those who have crossed the Alleghenies; but their sides were whiter, as if covered with snow, or a white stone. Those were a spur of the grand western chain of mountains which divide the waters of the Pacific from those of the A

panish troops appeared to have borne up it, we encamped on its banks, about one mile from its confluenc

ppeared at this place to be much more navigable than below, where we first struck it; and for any impediment I have yet discovered in the river, I w

ble difference in their appearance from what we did yesterday. One of our horses gave out and was left in a ravine, n

where we could not kill game. Sent out the hunters; walked myself to an eminence whence I took the courses to the different mountains, and a sm

xpedient to remain and dry the meat, as our horses were getting very weak, and the one died which

gmented by the death of one horse and the addition of 900 lbs. of meat, we moved sl

s to move with caution; but at the same time increased our anxiety to discover them. The river was certainly as navigable here, and I think much more so, than some hundred miles below; which I

f colors. This caused a momentary halt; but perceiving those in front reaching out their hands, and without arms, we again advanced; they met us with open arms, crowding round to touch and embrace us. They appeared so anxious that I dismounted from my horse; in a moment a fellow had mounted him and was off. I then observed that the doctor and Baroney were in the same predicament. The Indians were embracing the soldiers

partisans; our colors were placed opposite each other; the utensils for smoking were paraded on a small seat before us; thus far all was well. I then ordered half a carrot of tobacco, one dozen knives, 60 fire steels, and 60 flints to be presented them. They demanded ammunition, corn, blankets, kettles, etc., all of which they were refused, notwithstanding the pressing instances of my interpreter to accord to some points. The pipes yet l

rmed the chief; but he paid no respect, except to reply that "they were pitiful." Finding this, I determined to protect ourselves, as far as was in my power, and the affair began to take a serious aspect. I ordered my men to take their arms and separate themselves from the savages; at the same time declaring to them that I would kill the first man who touched our baggage. On which they commenced filing off immediately; w

red any of the rascals pursuing us to steal our horses, to kill two at least; but after waiting behind some logs until some

e dividing itself into many small branches, and of course must be near its extreme source, I concluded to put the party in a defensible situation, and ascend the north fork [Fountain river] to the high point [Pike's Peak] of the blu

overnment during my absence, in case of our not returning, we marched at one o'clock, with an idea of arriving at the foot of the mountain; but found ourselves obliged to take up our night's lodgi

ls covered with cedars and pitch-pines. Our encampment was on a [Turkey] creek, where we found no water for several miles from the mountain; but ne

eat. We commenced ascending; found it very difficult, being obliged to climb up rocks, sometimes almost perpendicular; and after marching all day we encamped in a cave, without blankets, victuals, or water.[II-48] We had a fine clea

at the foot of the mountain, here fell to 4° below zero. The summit of the Grand Peak, which was entirely bare of vegetation and covered with snow, now appeared at the distance of 15 or 16 miles from us. It was as high again as what we had ascended, and it would have taken a whole day's march to arrive at its base, when I believe no human being could have ascended to its pinical. This, with the condition of my soldiers, who had only light overalls on, no stockings, and were in every way ill provided to endure the inclemency of the region; the bad prospect of killing anything to su

half past one o'clock shot two buffalo, when we made the first full meal we had made in three days. Encam

t repast, and arrived at our ca

o view a Tetau encampment, which appeared to be about two years old; and from their having cut down so large a quantity of trees to support their horses, we concluded there must have