ns, April

ling ripples, and a fall of about six feet in two-thirds of a mile, called the Old Man's Rapid. The river abounds with various kinds of good fish, especially the soft-shelled turtle [Trionyx or Aspidonectes ferox], which we took in great numbers. The banks of the river are generally formed by craggy cliffs, and not unfrequently you perceive stupendous rocks projecting over the water, out o

were allowed them. I immediately volunteered my services, and we parted with the boats at the mouth of Grand river [the branch of the Osage], the spot where our ransomed priso

, I perceived 60 or more horsemen painted with blue chalk; when the chief observed them, he commanded a halt, and sent forward his younger brother Nezuma, or Rain that Walks, with a flag and silk handkerchief as a prize for the swiftest horseman. At a given signal they started off at full speed, the two foremost taking the flag and handkerchief, and the rest contenting themselves with having shown their agility and skill. As I entered the village I was saluted by a discharge from four swivels which the Ind

s observations, which he did not complete until the 28th of the month. The 29th and 30th were devoted to packing as conveniently and carefully as possible the mathematical instruments and a small

yards wide, we marched a whole day [week[V-3]] before we reached the waters of the Kansas, and were agreeably surprised to find ourselves on the bank of a bold running stream [Smoky Hill fork]. Between this and the village of the Pawnees we crossed two st

age is composed of the followers of a dissatisfied warrior who first made this establishment, and the adherents of a regular chief of the Grand Pawnees who migrated thither some few years since with

ed, flanked us on the right and left, yelling in a most diabolical manner. The chief advanced in front, accompanied by Iskatappe, or Rich Man, the second great personage of the village and his two sons, who were clothed in scarlet cloth. They approached slowly, and when within 100 yards the three latter halted; Characterish advanced in great state, and when within a few paces of us stretched out his hand and cried, "Bon jour." Thus ended the first ceremony. We moved on about a mile further, and having gained the summit of a considerable hill, we discovered the village directly at its base. We here were again halted, and the few Osages who accompanied us were ordered in front and se

him [Jefferson] to assure them of his good wishes, etc.; that he perceived a Spanish flag flying at the council-lodge door, and was anxious to exchange one of their great father's for it; and that it was our intention to proceed further to the westward, to examine this, our

pring with a large army; that he further told him the Americans were a little people, but were enterprising, and one of those days would stretch themselves even to his town; that they took the lands of Indians, and would drive off their game; "and how very truly," said Characterish, "has the Spanish chieftain spoken!" We demanded to pu

n regular order; also we were informed they kept regular guards, and that the beats of their drum were uniform morning and evening. The Spanish leader, further, delivered to Characterish a grand medal, two mul

us without fear and prepared, to a man, they offered no outrage. Having grazed our horses an hour, we parted from this turbulent band, slung our packs, proceeded to Solomon's Fork of the Kanses, and pitched our tents on an old encampment of the Spaniards whose trace we were following, as we found the next morning [10th] many tent-pins made of wood different from any in that country. At mid-day Lieutenant Pike, Dr. Robinson, and the interpreter Baroney pushed on to search for water, and I remained with the troops. I pushed on as briskly as our poor half-famished horses would permit, but at nightfall could discover nothing of Mr. Pike, and had not a tree in view. This induced me to quicken my pace; and, as darkness

ject of moment, we resolved to make search for it. Accordingly, on the following day [15th] at noon, Mr. Pike and Dr. Robinson struck off from the party on a due west course, and I marched the detachment for a copse of wood which we could barely discern in the southwest, and reached it about midnight. At day-break I was awakened by my old a

, although I had all my hunters out in search of them. But I was agreeably surprised on the fifth[V-5] day, early in the morning, by th

bed from bank to bank. Lieutenant Pike having determined that I should descend the Arkansaw, we cut down a small green

ke, who marched up the river at the moment I embarked on board my newly constructed canoe. Unfortunately, we had not proceeded more than 100 yards when my boats grounded, and the men were obliged to drag them through sand and ice five miles, to a copse of woods on the southwestern bank. I here hauled up my canoe, for

hrown away all my clothing and provision, except half a dozen tin cups of hard corn for each man, I slung my rifle on my shoulder, and with my buffalo-robe at my back and circumferentor in my hand, I recommenced my march with a light and cheerful heart. My o

tree; and if one was discovered, it proved to be a solitary cottonwood, stinted in growth by the sterility of the soil. The evening of the 3d instant I encamped on the bank of the river, without a tree or even a shrub in view. On the 4th we experienced a heavy rain; but hunger and cold pressed me forward. After marching 10 miles I

st gotten into the region of game; for the herds of buffalo, elk, goat [antelope], and deer surpassed cre

er a species of wood differing from the cotton tree. I assure you the sight was more agreeable than a person would imagine; it was like meeting with an old acquaintance from

d passed their range and entered that of the deer only. Our marc

as the game grew scarce, I conceived it most advisable to rest for a short time, and kill my winter's store of meat. This I effected by the 24th, and on the same day completed the canoes. On the 25th I again attempted

ah[V-9]], at whose mouth commence the craggy cliffs w

of meat; this accident was rendered the more distressing by an almost

in charge of the men, and passed with a guide to the chief's temporary village. I found him extremely unwell, with what I conceived to be a dropsy, for his abdomen was very much swollen. He seemed gratified at the sight of me, and observed that he was poor and pitiful, for the reason that he was a friend to the Americans. He said that Chouteau, upon arrival at their villages last fall, had treated him like a child; had taken on to Washington his younger brother Nezuma, or Ra

He has no more command in the village than a child, is no warrior, and has not even the power to control the will of a single man of his nation. Whether this youth is entitled to a grand medal, you may judge from the foregoing statement. Indeed, Sir, our grand medals have become so common that they do not carry with them the respect which they shou

d if I mistake not, an Iowa chief, who had been to the seat of government and there received a small medal, returned it in

remarked the medals pendent from the necks of the two Pawnee young men who had been to Washington, demanded of what utility

shington with the first deputation. The son of White Hairs, with Shenga Wassa, or Beautiful Bird [Bel Oiseau], was to accompany us to the Pawnee village; but the former proved recreant, and

what I have seen of Indians, how very requisite it is to use the utmos

rifting in large sheets, and on my return I found it running

eached the mouth of the Neskalonska [Salt fork of the Arkansaw[V-10]] river without accident or injury, ex

y distressing, as my men were almost naked; the tatters which covered them were comfortless, and my ammunition was nearly exhausted. The

eir temporary fall hunting-camps, and take their peltries. When the severity of winter sets in, the Grand Osages retire to Grosse Isle, on the Verdigrise or Wasetihoge;[V-11] and

get out and drag them along for several miles, when we halted to warm our benumbed feet and hands. The next day several large cakes of ice had blocked up the river, and we had to cut our way thro

ot overtake me until the evening of the 9th, in so shattered a condition that she coul

rairie grass on the S. W. side incrusted with salt, and on the N. E. bank, fresh-water springs, and lakes abounding with fish. This salt the Arkansaw Osages obtain by scraping it off the prairie with a tu

[river[V-13]] with water equally as red as that of the

season of the year, I arrived on the 23d inst., in a storm of hail and snow, at the wintering-c

ing to give the United States the tract of country lying between the Verdigrise and Grand [Neosho] rivers. A factory, with a garrison of troops stationed there, would answer the double purpose of keeping in order those Indians, who are the most desperate and profligate part of the whole nation, more fully impressing them with an idea of our consequence, and gaining more firmly

t 100 and the latter 130 yards wide; those streams enter within a quarter of a mile of each other. Below

from the Spanish governor by Manuel Lisa of St. Louis. But though Cashesegra be the nominal leader, Clermont, or the Builder of Towns, is the greatest warrior and most influential man, now more firmly attached to the interests of the Americans than any other chief of the nation. He is the lawful sovereign of the Grand Osages; but his heredi

man by the name of M'Farlane, who had been trapping up the Pottoe [Poteau]. We passed about noon this day the mouths of the river des Illinois,[V-16] which ent

hough narrow stream which puts in on the S. W., and also the

he plantation of a Mr. Labomme, and was more inh

ages, and on the 9th, after passing the lower Quapaw town, and

nd lime stones. As you approach the waters of the Kanses, it becomes hilly and sandy. The same may be said of the country between the Pawnee village

], and consequently rich bottoms. I was informed by the Indians that the country to the northwest of t

fear is not correct, as I was so ill when I descended

course of the Arkansaw, I hope will prove satisf

onor to subs

thful an

d obedien

James B.

d U. S. Regt

Exce

James Wi

-Chief of th