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Chapter III. The Nile Steamboat - The "Little Asthmatic."

Word Count: 2867    |    Released on: 18/11/2017

nderers of the Brucean age were wont to record their impressions of voyage upon land subjects observed between Alexandria and Cairo. A little l

sh to get over the greatest extent of ground with the least inconvenience to themselves and others. Then shall the Mahmudiyah - ugliest and most w

o us, and have been so years before the traveller actually sees them. The Nil al-Mubarak itself - the Blessed Nile, - as notably fails too at this season to arouse enthusiasm. You see nothing but muddy waters, dusty banks, a sand mist, a milky sky, and a glaring sun: you feel nought but a breeze like the blast from a potter's furnace. You can only just distinguish through a veil of reeking vapours the village Shibr Katt from the village Kafr al-Zayyat, and you steam too far from Wardan town to enjoy the Timonic satisfaction of enrag

-frost in the sun; and here and there mud villages, solitary huts, pigeon-towers, or watch turrets, whence litt1e brown boys shouted and slung stones at the birds, peeped out from among bright green patches of palm-tree, tamarisk, and mimosa, of maize, tobacco, and sugar-cane. Beyond the narrow tongue of land on the river banks lay the glaring, yellow Desert, with its low hills and sand slopes, bounded by innumerable pyramids of Nature's architecture. The boats, with their sharp bows, preposterous sterns, and lateen sails, might have

cotch mist. The cooking was abominable, and the dignity of Darwaysh-hood did not allow me to sit at meat with Infidels or to eat the food which they had polluted. So the Pilgrim squatted apart, smoking perpetually, with occa

rd, a Spanish girl, who looked strangely misplaced - a rose in a field of thistles. Some silent Italians, with noisy interpreters, sat staidly upon the benches. It was soon found out, through the communicative dragoman, that their business was to buy horses for H. M. of Sardinia: they were exposed to a volley of questions delivered by a party of French tradesmen returning to Cairo, but they shielded themselves and fought shy with Machiavellian dexterity. Besides these was a German, a "beer-bottle in the morning and a bottle of beer in the evening," to borrow a simile from his own nation; a Syrian merchant, the richest and uglies

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other tro

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oons; but seeing me finger my dagger curiously, though I did not shift my pipe, he forgot to remember his threat. I had taken charge of a parcel for one M. P- a student of Coptic, and remitted it to him on board; of this little service the only acknowledgment was a stare and a petulant inquiry wh

he projections with the fierce sun upon his back, till everyone thought his breath was completely gone. But no! game to the backbone, he would have perished miserably rather than lose his fare: "patience and perseverance," say the wise, "got a wife for his Reverence." At last he was taken on board, and presently he lay down to sleep. His sooty complexion, lank black hair, features in which appeared beaucoup de finesse, that is to say, abundant rascality, an eternal smile

e reader in a future chapter; and my two expedition

lling to accept the man's civility, disliking his looks; but he advanced cogent reasons for changing my mind. His servant cleared my luggage through the custom-house, and a few minutes after

, we English have a peculiar national quality, which the Indians, with their characteristic acuteness, soon perceived, and described by an opprobrious name. Observing our solitary habits, that we could not, and would not, sit and talk and sip sherbet and smoke with them, they called us "Jangli" - wild men, fresh caught in the jungle and sent to rule over the land of Hind.9 Certainly nothing suits us less than perpetual s

e if you like a little present, merely for a memorial, with your entertainer; he would be offended if you offered it him openly as a remuneration, and you give some trifling sums to the servants. Thus you will be welcome wherever you go. If perchance you are detained perforce in such a situation, - which may easily happen to you, med

from his former self as a counsel in court from a counsel at a concert, a sea captain at a club dinner from a sea captain on his quarter-deck. Then he will discover that the English are not brave, nor clever, nor generous, nor civilised, nor anything but surpassing rogues; that every official takes bribes, that their manners are utterly offensive, and that they are rank infidels. Then he will descant complacently upon the probability of a general Bartholomew's Day in the East, and look forward to the hour when enlightened Young India will arise and drive the "

re, girt by f

ay the thin

or leave the room, - at first you could scarcely induce him to sit down, - by not offering you his pipe, by turning away when you address him; in fact, by a variety of similar small affronts

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dian man

I crave a few of thy cast-off hairs; I want them for medicine;14 where can I find them?" "Wa'llahi!" replied the jackal, "I don'

special spite to Oriental coarseness, treachery, and tyranny. Even the experiment of associating with them is almost too hard to bear. But a useful deduction may be drawn

ian slaves that faced the sword but fled from the horsewhip. Such would never be the case amongst a brave people, the Afghan for instance; and for the same reason it is not so, we read, with "White Plume," the North American Indian. "The free trapper combines in the eye of an Indian (American) girl, all that is dashing and heroic in a warrior of her own race, whose gait and garb and bravery he emulates, with all that is

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Contents

Preface to the Memorial Edition Preface to the Third Edition Preface to the First Edition Dedication Part I Al-Misr Chapter I. To Alexandria Chapter II. I Leave Alexandria Chapter III. The Nile Steamboat - The "Little Asthmatic." Chapter IV. Life in the Wakalah Chapter V. The Ramazan Chapter VI. The Mosque Chapter VII. Preparations to Quit Cairo
Chapter VIII. From Cairo to Suez
Chapter IX. Suez
Chapter X. The Pilgrim Ship
Chapter XI. To Yambu'
Chapter XII. The Halt at Yambu'
Chapter XIII. From Yambu' to Bir Abbas
Chapter XIV. From Bir Abbas to Al-Madinah
Part II Al-Madinah Chapter XV
Chapter XVI. A Visit to the Prophet's Tomb
Chapter XVII
Chapter XVIII. Al-Madinah
Chapter XIX. A Ride to the Mosque of Kuba
Chapter XX. The Visitation of Hamzah's Tomb
Chapter XXI. The People of Al-Madinah
Chapter XXII. A Visit to the Saints' Cemetery
Chapter XXIII. The Damascus Caravan
Chapter XXIV. From Al-Madinah to Al-Suwayrkiyah
Chapter XXV. The Badawin of Al-Hijaz
Chapter XXVI. From Al-Suwayrkiyah to Meccah
Part III Meccah Chapter XXVII
Chapter XXVIII
Chapter XXIX. The Ceremonies of the Yaum Arafat, or the Second Day
Chapter XXX. The Ceremonies of the Yaum Nahr, or the Third Day
Chapter XXXI. The Three Days of Drying Flesh
Chapter XXXII. Life at Meccah, and Umrah, or the Little Pilgrimage
Chapter XXXIII. Places of Pious Visitation at Meccah
Chapter XXXIV. To Jeddah
Appendix I. Of Hajj, or Pilgrimage
Chapter I. - Of Pilgrimage
Chapter II. - Of Umrah, or the Little Pilgrimage
Chapter III. - Of Ziyarat, or the Visit to the Prophet's Tomb
Appendix II. The Bayt Ullah
Appendix III
Appendix IV
Chapter XI
Chapter XII
Chapter XIII
Chapter XIV
Chapter XV
Chapter XVII
Chapter XVIII
Chapter XX
Appendix V
Chapter VIII
Appendix VI. Giovanni Finati
Appendix VII. Notes on My Journey by A. Sprenger
Appendix VIII. The Meccah Pilgrimage
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