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Chapter II. I Leave Alexandria

Word Count: 3129    |    Released on: 18/11/2017

ll "inhabitiveness" and "locality" equally and largely developed. After a long and toilsome marc

and he wonders at the demoralisation of the mind which cannot find means of excitement in chit-chat or small talk, in a novel or a newspaper. But soon the passive fit has passed away; again a paroxysm of ennui

to send his wife back to her papa, and to accompany me, in the capacity of private chaplain to the other side of Kaf. 3 I politely accepted the "Bruderschaft," but many reasons induced me to decline his society and services. In the first place, he spoke the detestable Egyptian jargon. Secondly, it was but prudent to lose the "spoor" between Alexandria and Suez. And, thirdly, my "brother" had shifting eyes (symptoms of fickleness), close together (indices of cunning); a flat-crowned head, and large ill-fitting lips; sig

e, however, there

Cayenne. If you order your peasant to be flogged, his friends gather in threatening hundreds at your gates; when you curse your boatman, he complains to your consul; the dragomans afflict you with strange wild notions about honesty; a Government order prevents you from using vituperative language to the "natives" in general; and the very donkey boys are becoming cognisant of the right of man to remain unbastinadoed. Still the old leaven remains behind: here, as elsewhere in the "Morning-land," you cannot hold yo

e an Indo-British subject named Abdullah, by profession a doctor, aged thirty, and not distinguished - at least so the frequent blanks seemed to denote - by any remarkable conformation of eyes, nose, or cheek. For this I disbursed a dollar. And here let me record the indignation with which I did it. That mighty Britain - the mistress of the seas - the ruler of one-

te clerk vouchsafed the information that the proper place to apply to was the Diwan Kharijiyah (the Foreign Office). Thus a second day was utterly lost. On the morning of the third I started, as directed, for the Palace, which crowns the Headland of Clay. It is a huge and couthless shell of b

g his person like a robe, was in full enjoyment of the Asiatic "Kayf." Having presented the consular certificate

ct for Darwayshes, it

rity, without moving any thing but the quantity

tion in almost the same words. Ruh! "Be off," was what I obtained for all reply. But this time the questioned went so far as to open his eyes. Still I stood twirling the paper in my hands, and looking very humble and very persevering, till a loud Ruh ya Kalb! "Go, O dog!" converted into a responsive cu

donkey-boys, and idlers in general. At length, wearied of patience, I offered a soldier some pinches of tobacco, and promised him an Oriental sixpence if he would manage the business for me. The man was interested by

scendent listlessness and affectation of pride, in answer to my salams and benedictions, he eyed me with wicked eyes, and faintly ejaculated "Min ent8?" Then hearing that I was a Darwaysh and doctor - he must be an Osmanli Voltairean, that little Tur

the department was, had been presented with an olive branch in the morning, and consequently that business was not to be done that day. The angry-faced official communicated the intelligence to a large group of Anadolian, Caramanian, Bosniac, and Roumelian Turks, - sturdy, undersized, broad-shouldered, bare-legged, splay-footed, ho

told the angry official that he and his master were a pair of idlers, and the curses that rumbled and

btained permission, in the character of Dr. Abdullah, to visit any part

ch trouble about a passport. The home reader natural

f as you please, in the latter a path is ready prepared for you. My spirit could not bend to own myself a Burma,9 a renegade - to be pointed at and shunned and catechised, an object of suspicion to the many and of contempt to all. Moreover, it would have obstructed the aim of my wanderings. The convert is always watched with Argus eyes, and men do not willingly give information to a "new Moslem," especially a Frank: they suspect his conve

reputation. For bedding and furniture I had a coarse Persian rug - which, besides being couch, acted as chair, table, and oratory - a cotton-stuffed chintz-covered pillow, a blanket in case of cold, and a sheet, which did duty for tent and mosquito curtains in nights of heat.12 As shade is a convenience not always procurable, another necessary was a huge cotton umbrella of Eastern make, brightly yellow, suggesting the idea of an overgrown marigold. I had also a substantial housewife, the gift of a kind relative, Miss Elizabeth Stisted; it was a roll of canvas, carefully soiled, and garnished with needles and thread, cobblers' wax, buttons, and other such articles. These things were most useful in lands where tailors abound not; besides which, the sight of a man darning his coat or patching his slippers teems with pleasing ideas of humility. A dagger,13 a brass inkstand and pen-holder stuck in the belt, and a mighty rosary, which on occasion might have been converted into a weapon of offence, completed my equip

readily rolled up into a bundle; and for a medicine chest17 I bought a pea-green b

reach it till past noon - the hour of idleness. A little, dark gentleman - Mr. Green - so formed and dressed as exactly to resemble a liver-and-tan bull-terrier, who with his heels on the table was dosing, cigar in mouth, over the last "Galignani," positively refused, after a time, - for at first he would not speak at all, - to let me take my passage till three in the afternoon. I inquired wh

ing "work" upon his hands, sends a junior; the junior finds the sun hot, and passes on the word to a "peon;" the "peon" charges a porter with the errand; and the port

ch native merchant, it would have been the same. How many complaints of similar treatment have I heard in different parts of the Eastern world! and how little can one realise them without having actually experienced the evil! For the fu

esence of his servants - he had become somewhat unpleasantly anxious, of late, to induce in me the true Oriental feeling, by a slight administration of the bastinado - I bade adieu to my patients, who now amounted to about fifty, shaking hands with al

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Contents

Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Preface to the Memorial Edition
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Preface to the Third Edition
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Preface to the First Edition
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Dedication
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Part I Al-Misr Chapter I. To Alexandria
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter II. I Leave Alexandria
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter III. The Nile Steamboat - The "Little Asthmatic."
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter IV. Life in the Wakalah
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter V. The Ramazan
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter VI. The Mosque
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter VII. Preparations to Quit Cairo
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter VIII. From Cairo to Suez
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter IX. Suez
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter X. The Pilgrim Ship
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter XI. To Yambu'
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter XII. The Halt at Yambu'
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter XIII. From Yambu' to Bir Abbas
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter XIV. From Bir Abbas to Al-Madinah
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Part II Al-Madinah Chapter XV
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter XVI. A Visit to the Prophet's Tomb
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter XVII
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Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter XVIII. Al-Madinah
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter XIX. A Ride to the Mosque of Kuba
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter XX. The Visitation of Hamzah's Tomb
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter XXI. The People of Al-Madinah
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter XXII. A Visit to the Saints' Cemetery
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter XXIII. The Damascus Caravan
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter XXIV. From Al-Madinah to Al-Suwayrkiyah
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter XXV. The Badawin of Al-Hijaz
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter XXVI. From Al-Suwayrkiyah to Meccah
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Part III Meccah Chapter XXVII
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter XXVIII
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Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter XXIX. The Ceremonies of the Yaum Arafat, or the Second Day
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter XXX. The Ceremonies of the Yaum Nahr, or the Third Day
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter XXXI. The Three Days of Drying Flesh
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter XXXII. Life at Meccah, and Umrah, or the Little Pilgrimage
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter XXXIII. Places of Pious Visitation at Meccah
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter XXXIV. To Jeddah
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Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Appendix I. Of Hajj, or Pilgrimage
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter I. - Of Pilgrimage
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter II. - Of Umrah, or the Little Pilgrimage
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter III. - Of Ziyarat, or the Visit to the Prophet's Tomb
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Appendix II. The Bayt Ullah
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Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Appendix III
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Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Appendix IV
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Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter XI
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Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter XII
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Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter XIII
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Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter XIV
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Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter XV
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Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter XVII
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Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter XVIII
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Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter XX
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Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Appendix V
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Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Chapter VIII
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Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Appendix VI. Giovanni Finati
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Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Appendix VII. Notes on My Journey by A. Sprenger
18/11/2017
Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah
Appendix VIII. The Meccah Pilgrimage
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