arments for your sister or mother. Some day you may wish to be a seamstress or a dressmaker and to earn money in that way. Barb

nastics and fancy dancing. In the spring or early summer they expect to give a dance outdoors. A pagea

Pageants have been held in many parts of the eastern and western states; and in England there have been many pageants. Perhaps you can plan a pageant for your town. While the girls are practicing their dancing and gymnastics, bloomers will be

ss

RN OF THE

to school. You have learned to read patterns. You must a

the same time? How, then, should the material be folded? Notice the perforations. They will help us to know which part of the pattern is to be placed on the warp of the cloth. How wide is the width of the pattern at the widest part? If it is 34 inches, then it will be easy to calculate how many lengths to buy of cloth 3

bloomers and

o be made from gingham, percale, galatea, or other cotton cloth. Which will you choose? Shall we not write for some samples of these different materials? The Pleasant Valley girls wrote and received them in a few days. Perhaps you too are learning how to order by mail when you are too far away from town to go shopping. Try to make all the calculations to-day and to learn

ES AND

omers. Notice the parts, also t

will be necessary for a pa

of materials suit

ss

OF WHERE W

et us study about wool. Wool is the most important textile fiber. All girls

ty of hair, and varies in fineness. The coarser varieties are called hair. Hair is obtained from the angora goat, the camel, and alpaca. Perhaps your teacher has a microscope. Look at the fibers under the glass. You can see how hair differs from wool. There are tiny serrations on the wool surface which look like the sc

Bon

ful looking sheep pro

e machine clippers must be used. These clipping machines can be run by hand or other power. They shear close and save wool. Notice the machine which the man in the picture (Fig. 118) is using; it is just like the one Mr. Allen uses. Frank or John sometimes helps. The coating of

Wool fiber

important. The western states, Montana, Idaho, Wyoming, and Oregon, su

.-The ha

ustralia, England, South Africa, South America, Spain

Chicago Flex

eep shearing

sheep on the hillside. Abel, the brother of Cain, was a keeper of sheep. Can you find these stories in the Bible? Writers of many ages t

t fiber. Then, there is the angora goat of Asia Minor, which provides us with mohair. This is a lovely soft fiber resembling

n the wool fiber cannot be seen with the naked eye. They are, however, very important; for it is this characteristic of wool which makes it felt, and, because these tiny serrations interlock, it is possible to make the fine texture of broadcloth and other fine wool materials. We shall study how later. Do you think we wish the tiny serrations to interlock when we wash woolen articles? I

a are very fine. The English and Australian wools are of several qualities. The long wools come from Lincoln and Leicestershire, and the shorter from Suffolk and Shropshire. Can you find these places on your map of England? The long coarse wools are used for carpets

f different kinds which you can contribute. Put them in the surprise box. We shall

ES AND

the principal count

icroscope, compare wool an

rments shrink when

e most important

es of long coarse wool

ss

COMMON MATERIAL

wool. Let us learn to-day about t

, but place them in three piles. We have the thick, close materials, which are heavy and firm. Then we have the thin, sheer ones. In the third pile, place

or for dress fabrics. Here is a sample of a plaid serge. Marjorie Allen had such a dress last winter. It is possible to buy plain colors too. Serges are woven quite wide, from 42 to 54 inches, and cost from 75 cents to $3 per yard. Cheviots are very similar to serges in pri

now made by machinery. Tweed gets its name from a place in Scotland. These materials are very serviceable, especially for rough wear for suitings, coats, or dress goods. The color or pattern is not always clearly defined, because the ya

y are all softer than serges. Cashmere and henrietta resemble each other. They both have a twilled weave. Henrietta was originally woven with a silk warp. One can buy silk warp henrietta to-day. Grandmother Stark has one. Is there a sample in your box? Cashmere is also

etimes the pattern is woven in and sometimes printed. It is made sometimes of a mixture of cotton and wool, or silk and wool; but now

r dress goods and costs about the same as challie, 50 cents

One can buy it for $1.50, but as a rule it is not very satisfactory under $2 per yard. Broadcloth is closely woven, smooth, and soft in finish. It is from 50 to 58 inches in width. Has any one at your house a dress or coat made from this? Examine it and ask how durable it has been. Father's winter overcoat was perhaps made of melton, or covert c

its. It is heavy, but differs from the smooth su

r yard. I am sure you all know its use. School pennants are made from it, and so are some table covers. Flannel is woven. It is finished with a soft surface which is slightly napped. What does that mean? It is a rather loosely woven fabric, and is used for many

t, also, has an open mesh weave, and is a common wool material. They are both used for dress goods, and are made in solid colors. There are also some printed voiles, but they are usually made of c

ne. They are similar to the voiles, of open mesh

at the flag flying on your schoolhouse. Bunting is about 24 inches in wi

but rather more wiry. They are made from hair of the Angora goat. They are serviceable, for they both shed dust and wear well. They are used for dresses or dust coats.

inches 75 cen

4 inches 75 ce

inches 50 cen

are made of cotton as well as of wool, or of a mixture of the two. They cost from $7

yarn stands up in loops, and then these loops are cut as in vel

rate column. That is the way the Pleasant Valley girls arranged theirs. The first will be the heavy materials; then the medium weight, and then the thin ones. It is easy to sort and label them now that you know their names, uses, and widths.

ES AND

erence between f

ls; some of lighter weight. Tel

pets are made. Perhaps you woul

nd broadcloths dif

r the five columns of the chart

ss

PAIR OF

to make the b

e, according to age. 14-year size was chosen. Perhaps you must make yours smaller or larger. One pattern can be adapted to the whole class. This you allowed for, in ordering the amount of cloth. Let us place the pattern carefully. Be sure that the perforations which indicate lengthwise of the material are placed on the warp. Can you cut out both legs at the same

en made. Baste the seam ? inch wide. Then stitch close to the basting. Cut off one edge of this seam to within 1?8 inch of the stitching, and lay the other edge of seam flat on the cloth

king: A, the seam stitched; B, one edge cut; C, the tu

h the same flat fell. Be sure to have the tw

twice the length of placket opening. If cut 2? inches wide, the finished facing will be one inch in width. Place the right side of the strip to the right side of the bloomers. Baste ? inch seams, holding strip all around t

Stitch, leaving one inch open. This is the opening for the ela

ther to fit ? of your waist measure. It will be necessary to measure your bands and to allow the two inches for lapping

. Baste, stitch, turn to the right side. Snaps may be used, or buttons and buttonholes, for closing. Buttonholes can also be placed at the center front and at the back of the bands, if the bloomers are to be fastened to a waist. How shall the buttonholes be placed in cutting for fastenin

ES AND

t things to remember in

he bloomers differ from t

ss

HOW WOOL IS M

w wool is made into cloth after it has been s

of M. J.

0.-Wool

erspiration. This grease helps to preserve the wool until the manufacturer is ready to use it; and, although he buys the wool by weight and pays for dirt and grease, he prefers to do so because of the preserving qualities of the grease. Even ? of the weight may be dirt and grease. The first thing the manufacturer does is to sort

of M. J.

ool washing

haps you can bring some dirty wool from your farm to school and wash it. Soft soap is the most harmless. Use a soft water at a low temperature (120° F.). Can you tell why it must be low? The washing is done in a series of tanks. You can see them in the picture (Fig. 121). The wet wool is swi

the spinning and to keep it soft and elastic, so the manufacturer must retu

e wool, they must be removed. A machine call

or some woolen materials, as he would have to use all new wool. That is why some wool materials are so expensive. If only new wool were used, there would not be enough raised in the world to clothe everybody. The wool manufacturer, therefore, blends, or mixes, the wool before it is sent to the carding

gs, like woolen stockings, flannels, soft underwear; materials which have not been felted together. Do you know what felted means? The rags are washed, ground up, and prepared to mix with the new wool. Mungo is another queer name which is g

of M. J.

linders. The gauzy web is being delivered i

machine. It also helps to clean the dirt from the wool. The picture (Fig. 122) will show you how the wool carder looks. There is a center cylinder and around it revolve small cylinders. They are all covered with wire teeth which help to pull the wool apart and to cleanse it. If you were to stand before the machine, you would see a gauzy, filmy sheet of wool the width of the long rollers as it leaves the machine. The wide gauzy mass is pulled together as it is drawn through a h

ES AND

ll you about sheep raising on

ld and new wool. What are the names of so

wool carding done to-day? Why is carding an importan

ss

MEMBER IN PURCHA

ls and worsted yarn for others? If one knows this, it will be a g

giving long wool. It is prepared by processes which comb it until all the short fibers are removed and only the long straight ones are used. This combing prepares the long wool fibers for spinning so tha

of M. J.

for high grade material

into broadcloths and meltons. After the weaving the cloth is put into vats where the temperature opens up the serrations and the scales interlock, and make a close, smooth piece of cloth. This is called fulling. Isn't this interesting? Do you see why the manufacturer uses worsted instead of woolen yarn fo

rs of wool and worsted yarn. A is the woolen yar

nd woven. Woolen yarn is fuzzy; cloth made from it is woven loosely and then it i

ttle or not at all. It is woven as it will appear. Be

of M. J.

spinning of

arranged in the loom in the same way as the cotton about which we studied. Many beautiful patterns are made in woolen materials, eve

ost of production by using mungo, shoddy, or flocks. Flocks is put in when the cloth is shrunken or fulled in the vat

cloth is made of cotton and wool mixed, or all wool. We will know by price whether the all wool is new wool or not. No shopkeeper should sell a cotton and wool for all

f the cloth in finishing. These small thistles are arranged i

now how to knit? Does any one know at your home? It is a useful and pleasant accomplishment. Shawls, afghans, caps, and sweaters can all be knitte

bout which Miss Travers from the State College told the Mothers' Club

a cheaper fabric. It wears fairly well, but is not so warm. Pull

otton and wool do not keep their s

y the fiber. Wool burns slowly, chars, and gives off an o

. The inexpensive is not cheap unless you wish someth

than a basket weave. Think about this in buying; fo

ES AND

o be used for underwear t

differ from yarn used in th

inks about when she buys a garment made from

ss

OTHING

gin to learn how to spend wisely, for they will very soon have the responsibility of being spenders. If you can make some of your clothing, you will help to redu

Your teacher will help you. What material will you use? Perhaps you would like a middy blouse later to wear with the skirt. Can you name some suitable cotton materials to use for this purpose? Yes, Indian head, galatea, duck. You have studied about all of these and should have them in your sample books. Such a dress will be suitable fo

ivision of her money. Ho

t have daily carfare, and she goes home at the noon hour for a little rest and for lunch. The rest of her money she divides in this way: Each week she tries to save 75 cents or $3 per month. The rest she uses for church and club expenses, for gifts, newspapers, or occasionally she

things which she needs you may have no use for in your section of the country. Try to plan what you would substitute. This will at least be a working basis for you, and will give you some suggestions for making yours. Marjorie Allen and Bar

st

s (winter) @

ts (summer)

e nightdress

te nightdre

dresses

t covers

corsets @

stockings

f garters

high la

ow shoes

rubbe

ateen pet

ite petti

te petticoa

t year's best

hat (ne

at, commo

rella

dress sk

ists: 2 tai

y @ 1.5

er coa

at (left fr

kid glo

wool gl

ter, bought close

eate

mer dr

uck dress

(left over f

erchiefs, nec

d for C

-

l $7

e year before. This is because Ann has foresight. She is a good ma

ond

(left from las

(left from las

on suit s

e nightgowns

ghtdresses

mer night

t covers

corsets @

stockings

f garters

high la

low sho

eft over, ha

aced, half so

rubbe

ateen pet

e petticoat

e petticoats

t white pe

ter h

(left over)

hat (retr

er hat (se

lla (le

irt (refre

ists (plain

hite waist

waists (

coat (l

coat (n

kid glo

l gloves (

ress (le

er (lef

s (left over,

ck skirt (

ite duck

ty dre

ught end of win

am apro

se dress (rea

er dre

-

l $7

w articles which will be of service the fourth year. Do you not think it is wi

rd

ts, winter

its, summe

it, summer

e nightgowns

er nightgo

ightgown (

covers @

orsets @

stockings

garters

air high l

ced repaired,

w shoes (

slippers (new

rubbe

ateen pet

ite petti

t white pe

te petticoa

ast year's w

at (common

r hat (

remodeled, com

rella

l skir

ists (plain

hite waist

waists (

at (left ov

at (left ov

kid glo

wool gl

odeled after 2 win

ck skirts

left over (ref

suit (l

aprons (

house dres

ouse dress

dress rem

ummer d

ncoat

ght towards close

inter ar

-

l $7

ES AND

less for your clothes or more. Mrs. Allen says that Marjorie is learning to purchase so wisely that next year s

ss

A DRESS SKIRT O

to make our

or by waist measure? The pattern books usually say order by age for a gi

mple dress skirt

her times very full. The gores help to reduce the fullness around the waist. Do you understand? Notice how many gores your pattern has. The front panel is counted as one gore, and the back panel a gore. There are skirt patterns with three, four, or even eleven or more gores. Perhaps your pattern has three gores like the one in the picture (Fig. 128). Then the center back will be cut on a lengthwise fold of material, as there will be two front gores

show you how to take your skirt measure, at front, hips, and back, from the waist line to the desired length (see page 50). You have learned how. Pin the tapeline about the waist and measure from it. If your pattern is too long, it

the gore usually cuts to best advantage at the end of th

baste, and then try on. If too loose or too tight, it is possible to stitch inside or outside of t

hem along the right front. Baste. Lap this hem over the left side. Baste flat to the left portion of front, and stitch nearly one inch from edge, to within 8 or 9 inches of the top. The placket opening on the under side of front can be bound with a two inch strip, sewing on

the belt. This makes a slightly raised waist line. Stitch neatly at the top edge. Turn hem at the bottom the desired width a

o attach the hooks so that they wil

hat she made one for her older sister Ruth, and

ES AND

rns which mother has at home. Co

gore? Describe. Dra

gestions for eco

ss

N RELATION

us well? The Pleasant Valley girls l

eation, and proper clothing all have a share. Clothes are more important than people think. Ill health is often the result of lack of thought in the protection of the body. Let us study how clothes affect health. You know clothing helps to keep us warm or cool, if we dress properly. You have learned how necessary it is to preserve an even body temperature. Growing girls must think about this, for no girl is well dressed who does not think about the relation of clothes to health. Is a dress really beautiful if it

low shoes, and low-necked dresses; really very scant clothing

hoes are im

energy are the result and are needed if the machine is to run well. If the heat is all carried away quickly because the surfaces of th

rotects also from sharp, hard objects and briers and stones which might injure the feet. Many people think only of the decoration. This does affect our choic

member in choosin

ne cannot do garden and house work in

e. Strong, well people do not need the same

re more vigorous than old people. Babies

erature; in winter, one should prevent an undue loss of heat

things about we

s not possible, exercise, keep moving, until there is opportunity for a ru

a week. The body gives off impurities which are absorbed by th

ed during the day, not shut up in a clo

never be worn day and night both. How do you air your clothes? (Fig. 56.) Many mothers do not change baby's shir

ly woven, so that the wind cannot penetr

at burden. One wearing them

ng our clothes, shoes, underwear, and o

ES AND

me important things to rememb

nt things to remembe

son

ROBLEMS IN CH

. Let us study about the wis

he thinks about besides the fact that they are pretty and that she likes or dislik

t her purpose, be

fit the instep

be straight on

e broad enough to ba

ough to walk, and thick enough s

ty of room for the toes

de enough for comfort. Tight

ll for a long time before her mother or the doctor knew why. It is not necessary to wear an arch supporter or an orthopedic shoe, if one has normal feet;

ers than to pay a doctor; and rubbers save shoes and keep the wet from rotting the thre

ation to climate. It is unwise to wear thin, transparent stockings on a

. The danger is that, unless well fitted, a corset interferes with circulation. Lacing causes all kinds of troubles. It deforms the body and makes it hour glass in shape, instead of free and beautiful like Miss James' picture of the Venus de Milo (Fig. 130). When tight bands or corsets interfere with circulation, the blood supply for the brain and the other organs is shut off, and consequently these organs

eautiful lines on the

the skin from being ventilated. Textile materials and temperature of the body are closely related. We should learn to know which materials to select. Each person feels the need differently. Old people and little babies feel the heat or cold more than other people. Grandmother Stark usually f

o that which will permit plenty of air next to the skin. The

iminate moisture. Wool on a dry body of a person who does not exercise freely feels warm and continues so as long as the skin does not give off more moisture than the wool can take up. If the body continues then to give off moisture, the heat of the body cannot escape and one does

res prevents this, as a still layer of air does not conduct heat readily. A loosely woven or knitted shawl is warmer under cert

ody excretions and is not easily laundered. As it shrinks with use, it has fewer air spaces between the

ed are also excellent, but expensive. The great argument for wool or for wool and cotton is that evaporation is slow unless moisture and draught are

ody and are considered more hygienic than the d

ES AND

e best kind for you to wear consider

hundred words about the best k

ll you consider the next ti

W PRO

r to permit you to plan it. Do not stop at the e

nitely planning each day to k

you give mother about wool, which wi

ear. Your teacher will make suggestions about the refreshme