dit if the work is completed neatly. A nightdress, a petticoat, corset cover, or under slip, and perhaps a white summer dress skirt will be made. The school board has just furnished a machine,

en people do not use good common sense about this question. She said there are times when one wishes to make garments and articles by hand, but it is foolish to do so when one has other duties in life to perform which are more important. Handmade garments are very beautiful to look at, b

ss

TERIALS SUITAB

it to arrive, learn about the cotton materials which can be used for und

to be made of white cotton material. Let us look also at the ones which are almost white. They are unbleached white; the others have been bleached with a chemical to make

ached is cheaper. It comes one yard wide and can be bought for 5 cents and, in better qualities, up to 15 cents per yard. It wears very well-better than bleached muslin. Can you tell why? It is used for sheets and pillowcases. We may later make a pair of pillowcases from this unbleached muslin. The white muslin can be bought in a cheap quality for 7 cents a yard; a

nsook is used for underwear and clothing for baby. It comes in several grades. Miss James has some coarser samples, too. It is soft and is nearly alwa

ery economical. Does any one know why? Yes, because it is easily washed and, when hung out in the fresh air and sunshine, does not need to be ironed

arser and are called cambric muslin. They are glazed and smooth in finish, and are used for linings and for other purposes. That name is also foreign, from Cambra

ts per yard and is woven about a yard wide. Sometimes it comes in colors and also with pretty printed figures on it. See, here are some printed ones. What dainty patterns and colors! Would you like a dress of one of these? Miss James has found two other thin, sheer, white ones. There are so many I wonder if we can remember all. This thin one

that cotton was grown in India many years before we had it in America; that is why the cotton materia

cotton materials wear well. The duck is used for men's trousers, also; and in very heavy qualities, it is used for sails or tents and awnings. John Alden's first long trousers were made of duck. How important he felt! Duck is sometimes color

which Miss Jame

lors. It is firm like duck and Indian head. Can you tell for what it is used? Have you ever seen any before? It is used for dress skirts, an

y the piece of 10 yards. It varies in cost, according to quality, and is woven from 18 to 27 inches wide. We also have huck

ed, especially those which have come from the town store. Which do you think will be best for your nightgowns? Yes, cambric, nainsook, or muslin. Which will be softest and lightest? Which is the heaviest of these three? Shall we use the muslin? It is strong and will wear well. Shall

ES AND

bleached in any of the library book

you have just studied about,

hite material you wish t

ss

ERN AND CLOTH

ttern for your nightdresses, an

t Valley girl in a

asy to make. The way to measure for the amount of material for such a gown is to take the length from the shoulder at the side of the neck to the floor and add three inches for a hem. This gown can be cut without any shoulder seams, all in one piece. So you will need twice the length from shoulder to floor and hem. Why? If the cloth is one yard or more wide, it will not be necessary to piece the gown; so be sure to choose material which is a yard wide. Is there an

ES AND

measure of the girl from shoulder to floor is 55 inches? How muc

ss

ON CLOTH

re are many people who help in changing the cotton from fiber to cloth. While you are w

e manufacturers make only cotton threads of various kinds, for sewing, knitting, and crocheting. Others make cotton cloth of one variety or of several varieties. We know there are many kinds manufactured. Others make absorbent cotton, gauze, and such th

ss James' l

ll loom made f

thread may go over and under, and make the cloth. Look at the shuttle in the picture (Fig. 41); it holds the bobbin of thread. There are many kinds of looms. To-day cloth is woven on looms run by machinery. It is much easier and quicker than working by hand, and so cotton cloth can be made more cheaply. Frank Allen says he saw a loom at the silk factory he visited. If it were not for machines, our clothes would cost much more than they do. Think of all the people who help to give us our cotton clothes, from the planter who sows the seed to the manufacturer whose men prepare and weave it. Have you ever visited a cloth factory and seen the many machines and heard the great buzzing noise which they make? It is a busy place. Some factories make only warp, or filling, yarns. They are called spinning factories or mills (Fig. 46). They send their product to the other manufacturers who have only weaving machines for making the yarns into cloth. It is about 130 years (1789) since the first cotton mill was started in the United States, and only a few years longer since the first mill was started in England. Before that time, people of different countries made their own looms accor

raper Co., Ho

"In days

ttle holding the

raper Co., Ho

ving room in a

an Institute, Bureau

n girl weaving

rl spinning. The distaff with the wool f

ES AND

inch from the top; another row ? inch apart one inch from bottom. String the warp back and forth from hole to hol

eaving facto

you can card some wool with the hand cards which your g

spinning. The primitive peop

ss

NG OF COTT

o yarn ready for the weaver. This is call

y for weaving. This is what the girls of the Sewing League of Pleasant Valley saw the day they went to visit the mill. T

carding machine, whi

Leonard & Gr

cotton sp

As the cotton leaves this machine, it looks like a big piece (6 ft. wide) of cotton batting rolled in a large roll. It looks soft and clean. Then the girls watched the men place this roll at the back of the next machine, called a carding machine (Fig. 45). Here it was cleaned some more; and such a wonderful thing happened. As it left the machine instead of coming out as a lap of the roll of cotton like it went

r Allen's wheel use

. 46). Barbara Oakes noticed this: that these spinning machines not only drew out the cotton rope and made it thinner, but put in a twist which prevented it from breaking so easily. Do you remember how

e Metropolitan

-The fl

pictures (Figs. 48 and 49) of the wheels. She held and drew the flax while the wheels of the machine put in the twist. That is just what the modern spinning machine does, but it can accomplish much more in an hour than grandmother did in a day. Still it is a great satisfaction to possess some of the beautiful old textiles spun and woven by grandmother's hands. The girls had the pleasure of opening a great chest in the attic and looking at the hand-woven sheets and coverlets which Grandmother Allen prizes so highly. Barbara Oakes and Mollie Stark fairly clapped their hands and said, "How beautiful the colors are." Th

f Miss Mar

sat at her flax wheel and s

f Miss Mar

other Allen card

ls. If you have a Girls' Sewing League, the girls will, perhaps, send out invitations and invite the mothers and grandmothers. The girls can prepare some coffee and cookies at school to serve t

ES AND

es of very primitive spinn

cess of carding do t

ets and other old hand-woven textil

ss

OUT A NI

he nightdress pat

e probably arrived. Suppose

Barbara's help several patterns from the commercial pattern, so that all may begin to work at once. Miss James has had such nice boards arranged

your nightdress pattern, and see if it is longer or shorter than your measure. If the pattern is too long, fold up the necessary portion. If too short, do not forget you must allow extra when pinning the pattern on the cloth. How much of the whole nightdress does this pattern give? If only one-half is given, the nightdress must be cut on a fold; back and front in one with a hole for the neck, as it slips over the head. How shall we fold the cloth so as to cut on a fold? Which edge of the pattern shall be placed on the fold? Have you placed it most economically on the cloth? Not an inch should be wasted. The pattern may or may not allow for seams.

ES AND

ttern of a kimono nig

to represent the cloth, how the p

ss

OF A SEW

o-day and learn to run it? You mus

cox and Gibbs S

ingle thre

achines. One kind (Fig. 52) has only one thread, which is placed on a spool on top; and the other (Fig. 53), the two-thread or double-thread, is like the one we have at school. The double-thread machine is called a lock-stitch machine, because one thread is on top on a spool and the other is on a little spool called a bobbin in the shuttle under the plate. The two threads lock together as the machine works. You will learn

g rod? What does it connect? Watch how your teacher puts her feet

ew Home Sewin

ouble-thre

o see if you are holding it straight and making rows of pricks which are straight and even. If one cannot make rows of even pr

d the presser foot and can be raised or lowered by the little handle; the needle plate, through which the needle works; the feed, which is like little rough teeth of a comb and helps to push the cloth along as one stitches. The l

ed a tension. Press your thumb and first finger tightly together and pass a thread between them. When you do not press very hard, the thread passes easily. When you press hard, it is difficult to draw the thread through, and the thread may break. Have you tried? The tension is regulated by a screw which presses two little plates together. The th

e basting, others may try to run the mach

es have been put on the blackbo

to treadl

on a piece of brown paper, and to stitch with

ES AND

nd all the parts above th

ose of a tension? S

out a thread, even rows

tell mother about the ma

ss

EADING AND RUNN

ice stitching. This requires much care, but is not difficu

Mr. Howe. If we know the important points to remember in threading a machine, it will be very easy to follow the book of

ngs to think abo

l holder, and pu

es through which the thread must pa

he thread passes between the t

thread it from left to r

le. Look at your

ts place, and to thread it into the shuttle. Ask

tle back in the

ad. This will bring the under thread up t

be on top before b

begin to practice sti

e things, while stit

readle

e left hand and to pass it on lightly. Do

down in cloth. Raise the presser foot and t

el in the proper direction

good square corners. Use some scraps of cl

ay do so during study periods, if there is ti

ES AND

turn good square corners o

thread breaks every

the under thread up through the nee

chine, following book direct

ws of good str

ss

H SEAM AN

shall we finish the bottom? The Pleasant Valley girls did

h seam. First sewi

eam. There is another way, which we shall learn to-day. It is called a French seam. The French seam is sewed twice. The seam is basted as you have done, on the right side of the garment; seams are usually basted on the wrong side. Then, the seam is sewed close to the basting stitches. We shall sew ours by machine. The French seam is used on some garments made by hand. The first sewing (Fig. 54), then, is a tiny row of running stitches, close to the basting. After the first sewing, the basting should be removed and the edges t

French seam.

first turning is ? inch; and the wide turning, 3 inches. All use your gauges or tape measures; and turn and pin and baste carefully before sti

eams and hem. The Pleasant Valley girls, a

ES AND

ice piece how a Fr

By

y ma

rticles on which the Frenc

to remember in turning the hems a

ss

FOR THE B

well? Mollie Stark wishes to know what

about three pints in 24 hours. Can you recall what becomes of this waste? Yes, some is evaporated, but some is collected by our clothes; that is why they are soiled as they collect the perspiration and excretions, although often they do not look soiled. The day garments should be hung up at night in a place where they will air and dry out by morning. They should not be shut up in a closet. Different clothing should be worn at night

worn during the day sh

overings which have not been properly aired? Some people roll up the nightdress and put it under the pillow. That nightdress will not smell sweet and clean at night. Clean clothing is absolutely necessary in order to keep well. We shall some day learn

bathe all over with a bucket of water and a cloth and soap. It pays, for one feels so fresh; and, then, the waste of the body is removed by the washing, and

g helps to prevent the heat of the body from escaping too rapidly. We should plan to wear light clothing in summer and heavier in winter, or to adapt our clothing to the weather. This is only good sense. In summer we have cool days, and in winter warm ones. People whose

conducting the heat away too rapidly. Porous clothing is always better because air can pass through and can be collected in the meshes. Loose wool material is warm because it holds the air between the spaces made by the woolly fibers. Some day we shall study the wool fiber as we have the cotton, and find out why it collects

ES AND

tant to change one

e taken of the clothi

to keep us well? Tell

ology. What does it say about body temp

nk Mollie and Jane told about this

son

AND TH

the neck. Shall we use some lace? Do you know that ther

Cluny inse

n Cluny

ny inser

uny edg

Val" ins

"Val" e

Val" ins

"Val" e

retail prices of a few

beadi

ine-made b

bead

chon ins

rchon e

e torchon i

ade torch

chet inse

ochet ed

g.

y one make lace by hand? It is sometimes done on a lace pillow with pins to outline the pattern. The little bobbins of thread are thrown around the pins. Can you get from the picture (Fig. 59) an idea of how it is done? Torchon lace is also used, but is not quite so heavy as cluny. It is either hand or machine made. Both of these are linen laces, but sometimes are imitated in cotton. They are not so pretty when made of cotton. It is better taste to buy of good lace the amount one can afford than to buy a cheap imitation. If one can only pay for a cotton lace, then choose a cotton kind, such as the laces called valenciennes. The girls sent for French valenciennes and also for "German Val." lace edging and insertion. What is the difference between an edging and an insertion? The German valenciennes

by hand on pillows with

l cost less. We can use bias bands of lawn to finish the rough edges. Cut them 2? inches wide (see page 25), and they will be about one inch finished. The feathe

The girls who use lace may decide to have only the edging.

we use a French fell, the sewing will not show on the right side at all when the lace is entir

sleeve edges, a hem of 1?8 inch. The first turning must, a

e turned hem is exactly at the finished edge of the garment. This is where

ES AND

nd at home. With your teacher's help compare and disc

ends to show you any old p

see if you can learn more about how lace is ma

son

G THE N

y hand, and an inexpensive

e small, there will be no difficulty. After the hems have been turned backwards and creased to the wrong side, we are ready to sew on the insertion. Hold the insertion straight with the right side to the right side of the gown, and with the edge of the insertion to the edges of the creased hem. Now great care mu

little full with the thumb as one sews. Small overhanding stitches will hold the fullness as it is distributed evenly. The right side of the lace is placed towards the right side of the insertion so that the two edges of lace and insertion are overhanded together. Sometimes, if the neck of a gown is too big and one wishes to make it smaller, tucks can be put in groups at th

n the wrong side. Lay it flat, turn under the

hed. Place on the right side, right of lawn to right of gown. Make ? inch seam and stitch. Turn to wrong side. Turn under ? inch and hem to wrong side. Another way to finish is to baste the band and decorate it with the featherstitch to

ves set in, and sleeves and n

s of binding should be turned in (Fig. 60). This will leave an opening where the ribbon can be run in. This is a satisfactory finish and is not expensive. The law

ES AND

any other finish

ith ? inch space between them, how many extra inches in length would you have to add t

son

N AND MATERIAL FO

pattern for a petticoat? What kind of cloth will you use?

s, although some girls may prefer to make a slip which combines petticoat and waist. What sizes shall we order? How much cloth will be required? We shall need three lengths of cloth for the skirt. Let us take our length measures for the skirt, allowing four inches extra f

five gores. What does that mean? Would you prefer some othe

A simple

of the skirt. This is full enough. The depth of the ruffle is according to desire. It may be from 5 to 10 inches deep. Cut it across the warp. Can you tell why? Others may decide

ES AND

ial you will need for your

the amount fo

erns help you to mak

son

O MAKE THE

ractice that the petticoat will not be a diffic

nusual sale of Hamburg edgings; and she thinks she will go to town and see if it is something she can use. Miss James told the girls that Hamburg edging which is full of holes and in which the pattern is

ly how the pettico

hem, if necessary, and one inch for receiving tuck under which the

side, then back gore at each side of side gore, five in all. Pin from top down. Ba

ench seams

across warp of cloth. The skirt is then cut 3 or 4 inches shorter, and the ruffle makes the length by being added at bottom under a tuck 3?8 inch wide. This ruffle has ? inch hem on the bottom edge and is sewed to skirt with a s

Baste and stitch. This must be same distance from the bottom of skirt all the way around, and on the right side of skirt.

material with scalloped edge (see page 142). A ruffle of the same material with a simple ? inch hem may also be used. The width of

. Baste. If a receiving tuck has been made, turn it down over the raw edge of ruffle and baste and stitch on very edge of tuck. If a tuck has not been made,

und placket opening. Stitch. Turn to wrong side. Hem down by hand. Lap at bottom of opening so it lies flat. Backstitch

Turn over to wrong side even with top; turn so as to be ? inch wide finished; stitch on edg

ES AND

of Hamburg edging will be nee

d pin to the Bulletin Board, wh

making a rec

ruffle for a petticoat. Make the skirt part

son

AKE A CO

one has learned all the preceding lessons. Let us s

. 62). They decide to use nainsook and to trim them with German valenciennes lace. About 1? yards of cloth are necessar

simple co

pattern economica

erarm seams and shoulders.

edge to form front lap. It could be run by hand if all handmade or featherstitched with tiny stitches. This lap is for the buttonholes, which are made vertically,

bottom, and make as a finis

on inside of waist over these adjusted gathers a straight band ? inch wide, with edges turned. Baste and stitch this t

hine tucks of 1?8 inch in width may be run about three inches deep each side of the front laps, five or six tiny ones being made on each side, according to the amount of fullness to be taken in. The

ES AND

alone will be necessary to trim a corset cov

W PRO

at home. Learn to turn good squa

home, using the principles and knowledge gained

rotect your body at night? How do you v