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Chapter 4 THE WESTERN QUARTER OF THE ISLAND, DISTINGUISHED

Word Count: 7102    |    Released on: 06/12/2017

R

ME SC

Downs from Brooke

joy the charms of unbounded prospect, as we journey for four miles over a succession of pas

tion we must occasionally pause, to discriminate (by reference to a friend or a map,) some of the more remarkable features.-Looking to the westward, the high cliffs of Freshwater stretch away in a noble promontory of three miles, forming the foreground to the soft

n up from the sea, and gradually condensed; rolling by, and enveloping us in their misty volumes. It is true indeed, that these exhibitions are not without danger to the traveller, lest he unwarily approach too near the fatal precipice: but this circumstance imposing the necessity of caution, excites an interest-and interest is the very zest of adventure. [Footnote: Nea

y of the air, or the novelty of literally walking in the clouds, we estee

the last down, and in a few minutes, walking on

SHWATER

emarkable isolated Rocks and En

liffs, with

o'er the ca

t taking boat: the celebrated Needle Rocks are seen (though not to advantage,) from the down and beach: but the Grand Arch, the Wedge-Rock,

er part of the kingdom; for even Shakspeare's cliff at Dover, immortalized as it is by the pen of the bard himself, is little more than half the elevation of some of the chalk precipices of the Isle of Wight,-which, at Freshwater, r

either tree or shrub: and indeed it would prove equally difficult on our part to furnish a comprehensive definition. One eminent writer enthusiastically eulogises their appearance as "singularly elegant when viewed at a proper distance; and with the Needle Rocks, constituting a whole that is scarcely to be equalled:"-another declares th

n of the place, it would be useless here to describe individually the several objects deserving person

WATER

that rise from 30 to 60 feet above the sea. Two of these will particularly attract attention, namely, the Arched, and the Deer-pound, [Footnote: This name was given to the rock from the fact, it is said, of a deer having leaped on it from the main land, when closely pursued by the hounds of the late Lord Holmes, about 70 or 80 years ago: at which time the separation could have been but a few yards! Whatever credit may be attached to this anecdote by the reader, it at least serves to show the opinion which the older inhabitants en

to the beach; and Plumbly's, on the cliff: both of

tless wave

foam against t

fect, and consequently interest of the scene has been greatly injured by the fall falling-in of the arched roof. Now, however, visitors can easily investigate other caver

f the cliffs: other parties again go round by the carriage-road the whole distance in their vehicles. As, however, the grandest scenes can only be visited by boat, we shall best perform our duty as Cicerone by pointing them out as they appear in an aquatic excursion-that to parties generally affords a degree of elevated pleasure to which nothing else in the island ca

the gale-the

g hosts, agai

th clouds of

orehead, ol

shriek and c

liff the sea-

'er the dar

warring heap

high with

mighty bi

side of the down, within sight of the Ne

FRESHWATER

ich vary the pure white of the upright masses, though perhaps the lofty appearance of the whole is thereby rather diminished, at least to a spectator at their base. Amongst the most remarkable objects in this part of the range are Neptune's Cave, and Lord Holmes's Parlour:-the latter, a cavern of considerable height and bread

here by some gigantic hand to effect the separation. It is often practicable to land here, and it is worth while on the part of the young and active, were it only to be satisfied how extremely deceptive is the appearance of the rocks and broken green ledges

caverns to be given by the local watermen; for personal examination will invest a scene or object with

ither from above or below: while the constant washing of the waves at the lower part, by removing the looser particles of chalk, gives it much the appearance of having been built with vast blocks of masonry. As the water is deep even close to the cliff, and beautifully transparent in calm

dark flint, which regularly divide it into parallel strata of eight or ten feet thickness; the towering precipices are of the most picturesque shapes; and the Needle Rocks form an inimitable termination to the scene. Just within the bay

RAND

ht and overhanging the beach at least one hundred and eighty!-yet so true, nay, even elegant is the sweep, that it rather resembles the stupendous work of Art, than the casual production of Nature. To form an idea of the sublimity of the scene, the read

from a bold Bluff called Sun Corner, being the t

th; being formed by Sun Corner and the Grand A

LE R

f the cliff is evidently separating by degrees, and will probably become ere long entirely detached, forming a magnificent pyramid two or three hundred feet high. It is impossible to convey by verbal description a correct idea of these celebrated rocks: for in passing round or through them, they assume a different shape almost every dozen yards; sometimes appearing like a continuation of the main promontory,-sometimes as one or more lofty ac

tores were removed before she went to pieces. "The vessel," says Mr. Webster, "afforded me a scale by which to judge of the size of the Needles, and I was surprized to find that the hull of the frigate did not reach one-fourth of their height." The entrance to the Solent Channel "through the Needles" was al

M B

e composed of sand, clay, and ochreous earths, disposed in alternate vertical strata: and as the torrents of winter carry away vast masses of the soil, forming numerous deep ravines-an endless variety of the most beautiful peaks and romantic forms are thus produced. The colored strata vary in thickness from a sheet of paper to several yards; are now purely white, black, red, or yellow; then brown, blueish, or dull green,-alternating in a surprizing manner with each other, or blending into every hue: and

en this has not been enjoyed, the party should cautiously approach within a few yards of the precipice, "and to those whose nerves are proof against the horrors of the position, the new into the bays beneath, and of the cliffs and Needle Rocks, is extremely sublime. The agitation and sound of the waves below are hardly perceived, and it is scarcely possible to imagine that the quiet expanse which now seems stretched in boundl

and the other end held in their hands, by which they lower and raise themselves from ledge to ledge of the horrid precipice. The aquatic fowl furnish most amusing sport to numberless shooting-parties during the season. The principal species are ... puffins, gulls, cormorants, Cornish choughs, the eider duck, auks, divers, guillemots, razor-bills, widgeons, willocks,

O YARMOUTH,

ther by Calbourne to Newport, which is the nearest; or round by

e remainder of his journey, capable of engaging his attention. He may still however enjoy some very charming p

the down, surrounded by flourishing plantations; and about

ss it should fortunately happen to be high-tide at the time of our passing, and then the River Yar will have a lovely effect-winding between gently rising banks feathered

he fertile parish of Thorley, whose churc

MOU

o marine pleasures. Its chief support is derived from the shipping that anchor in its excellent roadsted, and the passengers to and from Lymington; there are three inns-the principal one (the George,) is a large ancient building, formerly the Governor's house, where King Charles II was entertained by Sir Rt. Holmes on

table villas,-so sheltered by groves and shrubberies, that the whole neighbourhood presents the

y land stretching out from the Hampshire coast, which here contracts the width of the Solent Channel to less than a mi

rough; which was a populous place in the time of Richard II (when it was burned by the French, but soon afterwards rebuilt), and though now reduced to a few humble cottages, the course of its streets may yet be traced.

Calbourne an

e remark till we reach CALBOURNE, a considerable village, having a decent small inn. The pretty situation of its neat little Church and Parsonage,-the handsome mansion and luxuriant planta

implicity resi

y call th

on the right is a very conspicuous object. From hence the road is on the slope of a series of hills, often picturesquely shrouded in groves and hanging woods; while in the more open parts some extensive views are presented of the north side of the island, the sea, and the opposite coast

nes, that with th

raggy bank, th

urrets: still i

n, a sullen g

OTHER CONSPI

on the

iderable interest to a traveller in the Isle of Wight, not only by their often giving an identity and attraction to many of those broad features of scener

ng description of the Tour of the Island:-most of them being visible from the neighbourhood of Newport, which

shey Down-the Sea-mark. At Bembridge-Mill on the Down. Godshill-the Church: behind which, on Appuldurcombe Down, is an Obelisk and private Signal-station. On Shanklin Down-Cooke's Castle. St. Ca

OF THE

for a hundred plans would hardly describe all "the Tours" recommended by the different inn-keepers and numerous other letters-out of vehicles for pleasure-parties; to say nothing of the wide difference between the visitors themselves, as regards the Time allowed.-We have anticipated,

D TOUR F

cond day cont

. Bri

. Clare, &c.,

ory, 2

reen, 1 Fresh

ng ferry), 1 Need

d, 3? Al

lage, 1? Sleep at Fr

hine and V

Chine, 1?

, 0? Yar

or, 2 Calbourne

astle, 1 Sw

, 1 Carisbro

2? Ne

Blackgang. -- Pa

est C

t Cowes (cross

ight-house, 0? Wh

ing, 0? Woot

hine, 0? Qu

0? Ry

ton,

nd Northco

ch Parties sleep but o

n 5, Shanklin 3, Luccombe and East End 2, Bonchurch and Ventnor 2

puldurcombe 5, Steephill 3, St. Lawrence 1, Niton

er-gate 4, Needles-point 3?, Alum Bay 1,-total 25? miles. Sleep at Fr. gate or Alum Bay.-Fourth Day: Yarmouth 6

TOUR FRO

Second day

try, &c. 4 Ste

entnor, and

Castle, 1

he right, 3 Luc

ver, 1? Shanklin Ch

leep here, or

Bay

Light-house,

, 3? Sandown Fo

Alum Bay. -- Yaver

dge.-Cros

St. Helen

e, 5 The Priory,

St. Clare-S

d Northcour

g Chine, 5 Wootton

ng, 0? Whippi

Light-house, 0

Villag

ce Church,

FROM N

EASTER

bridge, 3? Yaverl

? Sandown Fort

Bradin

. Clare, 1 As

ry, 2 Do

s Green, 1

y to Bembr

TOUR. WES

urch, 4 Ca

Shorwell and

ast End, 2

d Ventnor, 2

Castle,

e, 1 Freshw

eedles Ligh

s Light-house,

pring, 0?

, 0? Calbourne

1 Swain

? Carisbroo

, 4 New

ley.) -- (Or retur

9

ROUND T

ons, since many of the scenes we have described are seen to most advantage from the water. Steamers perform the trip two or three times a-we

o the shore, shaded by numerous groups of noble trees. After passing the Creeks of King's Quay and Wootton, we have a partial sight of Binstead: and a most comprehensive view of the f

ar range of lofty hills-forms a very agreeable picture, especially at the time of high water. Our readers will have no d

seen as from the water, "whence it rises like a series of gigantic steps that seem to lead from the lofty cliffs on the shore, to the summit of the grand perpendicular wall" that bounds it on the land-side.-East End, the lovely village of Bonchurch, the fast-increasing town of Ventnor, and the stately castle of Steephill, are all fully presented to our view: and less distinctly through the groves in which the

ater Cliffs meets the eye at once: but there is no great difficulty in recognizing the most noted rocks, caves, &c. as we pass along. The various forms which are exhibited by those huge masses of chalk the Needles, as we approach and leave them, in connection with the

iver Yar, with its adjacent town and villas: Newtown Creek opens about three miles further on. West Cowes, as we approach it from Thorness Bay, has a beautiful aspect, numerous

ge and Co

1,

EAM-P

he precise time of the several passage-vessels starting to or from the island: but this, instead of an advantage, often proved a disappointment: for perhaps a change of hours unexpectedly took place within a week or fortnight afterwards, in consequence of some new regulation in the time of the rail

pton, Cowes, Ry

MORN.

s at. 3? 8.40 1

tsmo. 8.40 1

o Cowes 8.40

ton 8.40

owes 9? 1

ton 9? 1

Ryde 10

h 6? 10 1

? 10.40 12

st Cowes 3? 1

outh'ton. 8.3

passages are

ortsea, Gospo

5. From Portsea at 8.15, 9.50, 10.55 11.55, 1.35, 2.35, 5

20, 9, 11, 12,

SUN

mouth at 8

e at 9,

rival of every Railway train,-and Cowes for Southampton in time to meet eve

to Cowes, whence she proceeds on alternate days to Southampton and Portsmouth-and by suiting h

h, Southampton, and Lymingt

tly make trips round the island

iling Pass

ily: the hours depending

d 4 (3 or earlier in winter), dail

th and back, every other d

run twice a-week, callin

Conve

following are the summe

o Ryde, at 8,

at 9?, 11,

West Cowes at 8,

ort at 10, 12

Niton,) at 10, returning at 3. Ventnor to East Cowes

entnor to Ryde at 8?, 1?, and 3. Passing

ches omit trave

ake the tour of one-half the island the same day. If from Ryde in the morning, they would be retur

n the hours of starting, perhaps in consequence of some change made by the vessels, but as often induced by the capr

to Newport or Ryde,-between the latter places there are three every day; between Cowes, Newport, a

he Princi

- the Bu

-Bry

, Corn-mark

n, Pyle-str

gh-stree

ier Hote

nion-str

ditt

r the thea

ar the pi

part of th

oarding-h

le,- Tave

Fountain, on

oining; d

tel, Para

ditto

,- Medina

les, nr. tol

,- Georg

e-Bu

Hotel. Fr.

tel, ditt

tel, Alum

Chine,- Ho

al Sandrock

se, on the s

Niton vill

dle

,- Hote

Hotel

d Lobst

ial Inn

,- Hotel-

Williams's

l-Da

King's-h

otel, on the

Wheat-sh

e,- Sun-

,- Griff

- New In

THE PR

COUNTR

THE N

rietors or

iers' Names appear, such Residenc

ost Gracious M

MBE, Earl

-house, B.

ar Ryde, J

dercliff, Sir

ear Newport,

sonage, Rev.

ar Kingston W.

ottage, Lo

nage, Rev. P

, S. of Newport, J

sonage, Rev

-house, Jam

age, Binstead,

rsonage, Rev

. Carisbrooke,

onage, Rev

ill, Ryde, J.

WES CAS

onchurch, Ca

. W. Cowes, Sir

e, near E.

of Newport, Rd

Cottage,

ettlestone, W

l, Freshwater,

tton, Samuel

ARK, Capta

ory, Rev. W.

ear Shalflee

th of Ryde, C

embridge, Hon

yde, T.B. M

ootton, Sir

Lodge, Bl

l, West

e, nr. Niton, W

ercliff, ditt

ouse, ditto, th

e, near W

House, R. J

. of Newport,

ouse, Rev.

onage, Rev

E. Cowes, R

horwell, H.P.

S. of Newport

PARK, G.H.

Freshwater, Si

Brading, Sir W

r Ryde, T.M.

ercliff, J. W

near Niton, Si

ingham, Rev. J

near Ro

ce, Mott

St. Helen's,

tage, Undercl

t of Ryde, Le

se, Miss

age, John Wo

e, Nit

e, Blackgang,

of Ryde, Col.

ditto, A.F.

Villa, Earl

ge, Hon. Cap

la, E. Cowes, M

ttlestone, W.

ditto, Henr

ditto John C

lla, Bemb

sonage, Arch

sonage, Rev.

ar East Cowes

House, Bl

ditto, George

of Newport, G

STLE, J. Ham

outh of Arret

age, Binstead,

Calbourne, Sir

Sandown, T.

r. Newport,

Norton, Ca

, Shanklin, -

t of Ryde, C

outh of Ryde,

Newchurch, Will

bourne, Hon.

owes, the M

on, R.B. Cr

Niton, Ca

ast of Ryde,

itto, J. Le

ar Gatcombe,

t of Ryde, J.

Gurnard Capta

sonage. Rev

Shorwell, Jame

rsonage, Rev

he Isle

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