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Chapter 3 THE ROMANTIC SCENERY

Word Count: 11205    |    Released on: 06/12/2017

HE I

THE SOUTH-EAST

TO BLACKG

NKL

inquire the road to the beach, and you will be conducted through the scene back to the vil

elm and ash trees with which it is adorned, the dwellings are so hid from one another, that in almost every point of view it has the pleasing appearance of being but a small quiet hamlet. Except in the most exposed parts, vegetation flourishes with unco

urf, and flowers

a bank, or sce

t certainly does not convey to a stranger any idea of the scene: it is a provincial expression for a ravine or cleft in the cliffs

he island is there a more charming stretch of shore,-for the sand is of a cool dark color, firm enough for wheel-carriages and horses to be used by invalids, and therefore proves equally alluring to the aged

CH

LE OF WIGHT. (Desc

rman's cottage, which may attract our a

and bold windings of the chasm, which contribute so essentially to its romantic effect: but, gradually ascending by a narrow path, we soon op

ged oak's emb

of the precipice, as to completely overlook the awful abyss. This view is altogether picturesque and animated: for the foreground is exceed

g beautifully hung with indigenous trees or shrubs, and the uncovered portions of the cliff of a glowing tint; while the opposite side presents the contrast of a sombre hue, and is generally too steep to admit of much vegetation ever gaining a permanent footing. Nor is th

climb the ma

turn to linge

have been lately any heavy rains, it forms a noble cascade of about 30 fee

ny ages, insignificant as it may appear to a casual visitor in the middle of summer. The Chine of Blackgang is indebted for its origin to a similar cause: and this of Shanklin would have gone on rapidly increasing, had not

s 300 wide at the top, near the beach, gradually diminishing towards the Head

form the southern termination of Sandown Bay, which is a beautiful stretch of shore

ees that stand on its narrow banks: and just as we approximate the little parish-church, pass over a bridge thrown across it

nd the Road leading to

e island; it is seen ascending circuitously the side of a steep down, between a hanging copse and several groups

British Channel spreads its blue waters as the boundary on the one side; the greatest portion of the island recedes in the most charming gradations on the other: and the Solent Channel prese

Shanklin-its northern slope being abruptly broken by a fine range of cliff, composed chiefly of gray free-stone fe

's CA

nt ruin on the Appuldurc

sley, in his History of the Isle of Wight, states it to be the "ruin of an ancient castle" (though it has been said that it was built as an object of view from

OMBE

hicle who have little time to spare. But many walk from Shanklin to it, either on the beach (if the tide be ebbing), or by a foot-path near the edge of

uth-eastern coast, dividing the claim of interest even with

NDERC

every spot bears the striking impress of some violent convulsion, such in fact as would be produced by an earthquake: but in proportion to the time that shall have elapsed, so all the more rugged marks of devastation are either obliterated by the liberal hand of Nature, or converted into positive beauties. Originally the whole of this tract, or nearly so, was rock rest

rtainly been in a state of repose for seven or eight centuries at least. Fragments of the cliff are indeed frequently shivered off, but rarely or never attended with any very injurious consequences: it is those extensive landslips which are alarming, when many acres of valuable land are completely overtu

T E

romantic scene, and if in a vehicle, be upon his guard tha

e stranger has nearly compassed the valley of Luccombe, he should particu

es a path i

y a rocky

at least to alight, and advance near enough to the edge of the precipice, to have a view of the interesting scene below; and they must b

r took place which destroyed about twenty acres of land: this was followed by another, eight years after, that ruined in one night at least thirty acres more: at which time above twenty full-grown trees were u

CHU

able village. Amidst a profusion of new houses, more or less tasty in their style-a villa, called EAST DENE,

uses were built for the purpose of letting lodgings; one has been opened as a first-rate Hotel; but the greater number are private residences,-and certainly it must prove a most enviable retreat for families or invalids during the winter months. It is impossible for any spot to be better adapted for a number of ho

ilding and decoration; for it avails little to have ivy-mantled rocks and mossy cliffs, the sunny knoll and the shady glen, with their groves and streams,-if the Genius of the spot be not consulted, and HARMONY made the rule of every innovation and improvement. In a word, it is too often in building as in dress, that many persons resort to show and

with

the Soil, and

Orna

r fantastic, n

on this subject is referred to pp.

ocality is unrivaled; the exterior of the house in a chaste style; and the interior

RCH OF BONCHUR

ve been built in the 11th century,-which is taken as a proof that this part of the Undercliff was certainly in a state of repose at the time of its erection; and has undoubtedly remained so ever since. Still, we cannot question for a moment, but this spot must have been in some

ned quite a celebrity for their age and beauty: the first is Hadfield's Look-out, boldly rising from the road; the other a prominence in the face of the u

tic tract of broken ground and wild brushwood, backed by the venerable grey land-cliff and the lofty brow of St. Boniface Down. On emerging from this beautiful spot, we have on our right a genteel

l view of the fast-i

NT

Shanklin and Niton. The Church, and the

ng, that land for the purpose which was at that time sold for £100 per acre, soon advanced to 300 or £400; latterly the price has risen at the rate of 800 to £1000 per acre for the more eligible sites. And at present there are three first-rate hotels and several minor inns; well stocked shops in almost every line of business: and medic

n speaking of the climate generally. Its progress was still more accelerated by the interest which the proprietor of Steep

ble-nor has there been the lapse of sufficient time for the growth of the shrubberies (however genial the climate,) to attain that size wh

ccupying a commanding situation, and the houses concurring in one general design: and below, some extensive erections, of rathe

or of the land have foreseen the magnitude to which the place was so soon to extend,-for in this respect a considerable improvement is visible in the latest-erected part of the town. The most regul

view of ST. CATHERINE'S CHURCH, erected by him at VENTNOR, is most re

uated as it is on a commanding knoll nearly in the middle of the town, affords an admirable relief to the whole scene, by arresting the eye

the curling waves expire at their feet in spreading foam. The material of the shore is principally fine shingle, or very small pebbles, among which particles are frequently picked up, possessing a brilliancy that has gained for them the title of "Isle of Wight diamond

of sketching,) that ought not to be passed by unnoticed. It is exceedingly steep: has a never-failing spring on its lofty summit,

odation; the license has been transferred. Many were the respectable parties of the olden time who used to amuse themselves with the attempt to gain the summit of the down,-sometimes successfully, but more frequently at the expense of a rather too precipitate descent, to the no small diversio

ce could not be acted upon to any considerable extent (except at Ventnor and Bonchurch); because fortunately the most eligible and attractive spots in this romantic district are in the holding of gentlemen who have chosen such for their private residences: and certainly, if selfishness was ever pardonable, it is so in this instance; nay, for our part, we really congratulate the public, that the spirit of exclusiveness so widely exists in this happy region of the subl

red only in a populous place: such for instance as regular stage-coaches running to and from Ryde and other places; a good landing-place; bathing-machines; a post-office and rea

le; this is the commencement of the property of Mr. Hambrough (of Steephill Castle), which extends to St. Lawrence, the estate of Earl Yarborough; succeeded by Old Park; and near Niton, the seats of M

LDUR

nce to giving it a separate day: therefore here is perhaps the best place for its notice, especially as the regular road from Ventnor to Newport pa

es. The grand entrance in the east front is through a hall 54 feet in length by 24 in breadth, adorned with eight beautiful columns of the Ionic order resembling porphyry. On this floor are several handsome apartments, containing many valuable portraits, and other good paintings; the

ich adorn the mansion, and published a very sumptuous descriptive work, entitled "Museum Worsleyanum." The

ginally seventy feet high, built of Cornish granite, to the memory of Sir Robert Worsley: but of late years it has suffered severely from the high winds, to the violence of which its elevated position renders it so exposed. From almost every part of this down we gain the most splendid views; below, is the rich vale of Arreton, Newchurch, and Godshill:

tickets at the office of the stewards, Messrs. Sewell, Solicitors, Newport: th

SHI

ill of itself repay the tourist for the trouble of ascending. The interior of the church is enriched by several interesting monuments, ancient and modern, in memory of the various possessors of the Appuldurcombe estates,-the most sumptuous being that to Sir J. Leigh and

x: the country is well-cultivated, but presents no object to call for particul

winding between Godshill and Niton:

ext place in our route which boas

EPH

NDERCLIFF, I

e of our friends who used to visit the island years ago, that the castle occupies the very site of the once-noted Cottage of the late Earl Dysart, and which was for many years that nobleman's favorite retreat. Steephill was then a most charming rural hamlet; but th

to what Nature

n which we shall not presume to

y a stran

eye, to censu

HE CAVE, which is in the face of the sea-cliffs, marked by a flag-staff; and there is, close by, a path to the beach. Half an hour's saunter would be quite sufficient to enable a visitor to judge of the beauty of the scene-which at one time pro

turesque headlands: and the place altogether equals any part of the Undercliff in its na

asing contrasts in the face of the exterior: or that it was the growth of successive improvements. Indeed, both inside and out, all appears to be handsomely proportioned and well-arranged; while in any point of view the whole presents an aspect of elegant simplicity.-The general form of the castle is an oblong; and the most prominent features ... one majestic square tower which springs from about the centre of the north side; another tower of an octagon form at the south-eastern angle; and a beautifu

l view of the local beauties, without indulging a too prying curiosity; and at the same time would refrain from plucking choice flowers, fruits, and shrubs, many of which may perhaps have been cultivated by the hands of the owner with an affection of no little solicitude and pride; and of course it is not always convenient to keep a person merely to act as an attendant. But a more decisive reason with many gentlemen who love retirement is, that from the island becoming every year more and more attr

LAWR

uriosity; and the stranger will also notice THE WELL, on the road-

groves, and op'ni

prize upon the

mantic scenes an

en, and rocks,

e ench

g interchange of the elegance of splendid retirement with the unobtrusive dwellings of laboring peasan

ttage-near a

lley, and a

nsiderably enlarged, and ornamented in the old-English style with elaborate barge-boards and pinnacles. At a short distance is the recently built residence of his Lordship's brother, the Hon. Capt. C.D. Pelham, R.N.-also in the Elizabethan style. By

URCH UNDERCLIF

ces of religious worship in Great Britain: its belfry, the pretty little porch, and its several windows, are all in character; i

rine Villa of the Right Honourabl

he most agreeable feelings; and it is marked by so much of that beautiful simplicity which is the foundation of picturesque effect, t

M ST. LAWREN

ular object; but we shall have the Undercliff in all its native character, a circ

th the following brief notice of this part of th

d terminates the cultivated valley; immediately beyond which we entered upon a scene of the wildest grandeur and solemnity. Many of the ruinous precipices of the upper cliffs project in horizontal strata, yet have perpendicular rents. Some of the shattered masses give the clearest echoes: we stood before one which responded every

ft, called OLD PARK (not from its display of sylvan honors), we s

PLE-

soft freestone, while the upper ledge of more stubborn rock overhangs it several feet. Having reached the eminence by a rude winding staircase in a rent of the cliff,-we shall be well repaid for our t

ations the road is carried for nearly half a mile, affording a mo

nge, where now

ition we have

t once into a

ain cottage style: but the grounds are not surpassed

the grounds, close and open,

nds immediately in front being formed into a succession of walled terraces, where the grape-vine and the peach find a congenial aspect: the coping too is

age style, on the right-hand side of the road, proceedi

ks, precipices, and wild tufted knolls. The house, the improvements in the grounds, and every decoration, in character,-unity marking the whole: rather a

ercliff from one end to the other. To the left of us, a considerable extent of land has been laid out and partly disposed of, for th

g the tour to Blackgang Chine, and the right to Newport through NITON, a village composed of a number of stone-built thatched cottages, some of which are furnished for lodgings; and has also a d

its ample verandah, mantled with the choicest creepers.-Next to the Hotel appears Mount Cleeves, a respectable residence near the foot of the cliff, surrounded by huge rocks and craggy mounds

e being just sufficient houses to give the scenery a cheerful aspec

ndslip in the year 1799, when a tract of about one hundred acres was disturbed, the whole sliding forward in a mass towards the sea, rifting in

halybeate Spring,-affording the best idea of the r

the land-boundary rises abruptly on the right: the intermediate space to the sea-shore is broken into a series of craggy knolls and dells: the carriage-road threading its way between immense masses of the fallen cliff,-

r drest

art, or art

ry form inspi

of the scenery is strikingly wild and sombre. The Light-house will force itself on our attention: the Chalybeate Spring ought n

RINE'S LI

LIGHT-HOUSE NITO

cause many of the catastrophes were owing to the want of some light or signal in the night, which could be distinctly seen by seamen long ere they reached the fatal shore. It is true indeed, that between 50 and 60 years ago, a Light-house was built on the summit of St. Catharine's down, but for some reason not known to the public, it never was equipped and lighted: a

ace of the ground, besides the lantern of about 20 feet more: and the foundation is of solid masonry to the depth of thirty feet! The requisite offices for the

watch-tower nodd

se the foaming

rs make the ascent, for the sake of the beautiful view afforded of the adjacent par

now pursues its maz

and mounds, co

ts of an ea

elow, inclosed in a plain piece of masonry. It has been proved by repeated analyses, that there is a larger proportion of iron and alumine in this than in any other mineral water yet discovered: and its medicinal properties

and in every succeeding summer drying up into a thousand dangerous holes and fissures. The ground in fact is now sufficiently firm to invite the builder to the erection of some good houses; and the surface exhibits a healthy herbage: roads have also been made to the shore. A large and handsome-looking house, call

nd now stretching out into the sea for nearly a mile and a half.-Between this and Freshwater lie other formidable reefs, respectively named from the nearest v

GANG

which is a very general point of view, as the descent

h naked heads th

ides, and torren

is terrific grandeur-without a green spray or scarcely a tuft of verdure to soften its savage aspect. It differs also from that sylvan spot, in being much more loft

us Hotel, close to the road, and dis

nterspersed with veins of gravel, predominate here as we have seen elsewhere in its neighbourhood. The only relief in fact to the dusky tint of the scene, is two or three horizontal strata of yellowish free-stone, which give it a step-like appearance. The most remarkable feature is a tremendous gloomy hollow or cave, scooped out o

ed in deepening gloom, with perhaps some hapless vessel in danger of being wrecked,-it is then dressed in all the congenial horrors of savage sublimity.-No one, a stranger to the sea-coast, would imagine how awfully the surges lash the stony beach in tempestuous weather: the hi

nfirm. For this reason, we have taken our sketch from near the new bridge, to which the descent from the hotel is generally easy: and from which the visitor may gain such a view as will

e greatly injured: for the garish and obtrusive habitations of genteel life but ill accord with that solitary and impressive magnificence which constitutes the very in

act of its having offered occasionally concealment and a safe depository to smugglers, or even pirates for a time,-it is equally, if not more probable, that it is indebted for it

erile aspect: such are Walpan, Whale, Compton, Cowleaze and the Shepherd's, Grange, Chilton, and Brooke: but though s

n the most beautiful specimens of fossil remains.-We would moreover call the attention of those visitors who may desire to examine into the agency which has produced the chines, to the two called Cowleaze and the Shepherd's-the latter o

THARIN

sea. An ancient octagon tower stands at the top, built on the site of, or rather as an appendage to, a hermitage-originally endowed by a benevo

erity in travelling be now the order of the day), that it is superseded by the road then made to Blackgang: to the admirers of illimitable prospec

t conspicuous object (72 feet high,) called the ALEXANDRIAN PILLAR: the

ll the Russias, to Great Britain in the year 1814-and in remembrance of the many

terized by simplicity and neatness: and its greatest ornament is a large verandah, having a broad trellis roof, beautifully intertwined with

E CH

r picturesque appearance-especially its square tower, which proves a great relief to the flatness of the view looking westward to the Freshwater cliffs: dates its e

ento whatever: but the public are now more interested, from the circumstance of the unfortunate sufferers in the wreck of the ship Clarendo

THE SOUT

ter Bay. In former times, the waifs, or possession of such remains of ships or their cargoes as were washed ashore, seems to have been a valued right of this, as well as some other manors in the Isle of Wight; and many tales have been told of the inhumanity of the wreck

ng, and about six hours afterwards struck on the rocks near Mottistone: the weather being fine, her crew and passengers easily reached the shore. The size of the ship, and the remarkable

sail the storm would permit, in hopes of weathering the point; but their gallant efforts could not long delay the fate of the doomed vessel, she continued to drift towards the beach, on which she struck a little before six o'clock, and within five minutes was totally demolished. It would be a useless attempt to describe the horrors of that short but fearful period: all that could be gathered from the statements of the survivors was, that she twice touched the ground lightly, forward, at which time all her people were assembled on the deck; and presently one mountain wave hurled her broadside on the beach with such stupendous force, that the huge hull at once parted into a thousand fragments! The frightful brevity of the whole catastrophe prevented any measures being taken for the relief of the passengers and crew, although the ship was scarcely twice her own length from the cliff; and all perished except the mate and two seamen, who were rescued by the courageous exertions of

rooke), and firmly fixed in the clay beds within. The suddenness of the accident caused great alarm amongst her crew and passengers (300 in number): and the startling discharges of her heavy artillery quickly aroused the inhabitants for miles round: but daylight and the ebbing tide enabled her people to reach land with no great difficulty,-although a boat, sent to her from another war-steamer, capsized with the loss of seven men. For nearly two months, repeated efforts were made t

number of scattered cottages: none of them however deserving a stranger's notice, except per

f it pass GATCOMBE, a small village, and a first rate seat: exhibiting a

oves, and verdant

oaks and elms: and immediately behind rises a steep hill luxuriantly clothed with hanging plantations. At a short distance from th

TO FRESHW

ght of which are through an agricultural district, presenting only so many agreeable p

e! yet hence B

d grande

to the exclusion of woods and coppice, which constitute the chief ornaments of a landscape. We have, however, nearl

osted on a knoll, and surrounded by a few trees

RWE

its greatest ornament-the rich drapery of ivy which invested its lofty gray walls and pinnacles: hills, clothed with hanging woods and plantations, rise boldly around it; many of the oaks and pines, luxuriating in a fertile soil and genial climate, are uncommonly fine: the grounds too are embellished with a rustic temple, and a very elegant mausoleum to the memory of Miss Bull, the daughter of a former ow

ened from the north by a range of lofty downs. The Church is rather spacious, and not unpicturesque; many of the cottages are neat, some fe

s of some small druidical temple called Longstone, which is a rude piece of rock of a quadrangular figure, evidently erected by art, and rea

the Mansion-house, which is surrounded with wood, being the only object to notice, besides the litt

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