raphy with pictures in it, or a "First" or "Second" Book of History, and wo
h of, or those curious old Rhine castles, of which we read so many startling legends of robber knights, and fair ladies, and tournaments, and gnomes, and enchanters? What a realm of enchantment to us, story-book readers, was beyond the great blue ocean! and how we resolved, when we grew to be a man, we would travel all over the world, and see every thing, and buy ever s
mething solid in the very appearance of the word when wri
urope looks further away than ever. "Going to Europe! Everybody goes to Europe nowadays," says a friend. True, and in these days of steam it is not so much of
went over, many such, and some who had scarcely visited beyond the confines of their native cities before crossing the Atlantic. These people, by their utter inexperience as travellers, and by their application of the precept inculcated in their minds that money would answer for brains, was a substitut
ve never said anything about. After having once or twice gone over in a steamship, it never seems to occur to these writers that anybody else will want to become acquainted with the little minuti? of information res
by the style of living and the thoroughness with which one sees sights; by thoroughness I mean, besides expenditure of time, the use of extra shillings "pour boires,"
and it costs a mere song to live. Good articles always bring good prices. Many may be cheaper than at home, it is true
he wishes to visit, the routes and time he will take, and then from experienced tourists ascertain abou
San Marco," the Florence mosaic stores, or the Naples coral shops. Safe in making little side excursions to noted places that you will find on your route, and safe from the annoyin
t a fixed sum for the journey, and who ought always to wait till they can al
a dinner, and figuring out the price of exchange, to see if they should order a f
rican. In Paris, during the Exposition, green Englishmen and freshly-arrived Americans were swindled without mercy. The jewelry shops of the Rue de la Paix, the Grand Hotel, the shops of the Palais Royal, and the very Boulevard cafés fleeced men unmercifully. The entrance of an American into a French store was always the occasion of adding from twenty to twenty-five per cent. to the regular price of the goods. It was a rich harvest t
ompany, and will save much time and expense at railway stations; but there is some comfort in having wardrobe enough and some space for small purchases, even if a little extra has to be paid. It is the price of convenience in one respect, although the
and a previous visit to the steamer may aid the fresh tourist in getting a state-room near the cent
n summer; and carry, besides your overcoat and warm under-clothing, some shawl
and take as much exercise as possible; hot drink
ry thing that will bring the sufferer relief. I have known a delicate young lady, who had been unable to eat anything but gruel for three days, suddenly have an intense longing for corned beef and cabbage, and, after eating heartily of it, attend her meals regularly the remain
ellously good effect, and that it is, in fact, an expected fee. If it is your first voyage, and you expect to be sick, speak to the state-room steward, who has charge of the room you occupy, or the stewardess, if you have a lady with you; tell him you shall probably need his attention, and he must look out for you; hand him half a sovereign and your card, with the number of your room, and y
them by these attentive fellows from the cabin table. It is one phase of seasickness that some of the sufferers get well enough to lie languidly about in the fresh, bracing air, and can eat certain viands
probably see you in Vienna, or Rome, or St. Petersburg, causes you to think that this, to you, tremendous undertaking of a first voyage over the Atlantic is to be but an insignificant excursion, after all, and that the entire romance of the affair and the realizing of your imagination is to be dissolved like one of youth's castles in the air. So it seems as you ride down to the steamer, get on board, pushing amid t
bus, has risen one hundred per cent. since I have crossed it, to think of the amount of courage, strength of mind, and faith it mu
ips that used to rise and fall on mimic waves, moved by clock-work, on clocks that used to be displayed in the store windows of jewellers and fancy dealers. Now the bows rise with a grand sweep,-now they sink again as the vessel plunges i
each,-day after day, day after day,-the great ship a mere speck, an atom in the vast circle of water,-water everywhere. The very wind sounds differe
th spray and foam, like a huge squadron of white-plumed giant cavalry. The spray sometimes flies high over the smoke-stack, and a dash of saline drops, coming fiercely into the face, feels like a handful of pebbles. A look around on the vast expanse, and the ship which at the pier seemed so huge, so strong, so unyielding, becomes an atom in comparison,-is tossed, like a mere feat
s the Atlantic; and the real beauty of green grass is best appreciated by s
ge,-it is nothing. Every one who is going a
w glib we are talking of the old country! for here it is,-no three thousand miles of ocean to cross now. A clear,
nd gigantic, and we wonder that the ocean could have so tossed her about. But the bell rings, the ropes are cast off, the
y little trouble, and the investigation is slight; cigars and fire-arms not forming a
s-a disclosure of the secrets of the toilet, perhaps of the meagreness of your wardrobe, and a laying of profane hands on things held especially sacred. Ladies naturally dread this experience, and gentlemen, too, who have been foolish enough to stow
terra firma. Now, then, a landsman finds out, after his first voyage, what
taken landsick two hours after stepping on shore, and had as thorough a casting up of accounts for an hour as any of us experienced on the steamer at sea. The Cunard steamers generally arrive at, or used to arrive at, Queenstown on Sunday mornings, and all who land are eager to get breakfast ashore. We tried the Queen's Hotel, where we got a very fair breakfast, and were charged six or eight shillings for the privilege of the ladies sitting in a room til
runked trees; chapel bells were tolling, and we saw the Irish peasantry trudging along to church, for all the world as though they had just stepped out of the pictures in the story-books. There were the women with blue-gray cloaks, with hoods at the back, and broad white caps, men in short corduroys, brogues, bobtail coats, caubeens and sh
-ending broad expanse of heaving blue was exchanged for the more grateful scene of pleasant fields and waving
; the attendance prompt, the chamber linen
roads, which command fine views. The principal promenade is a fine raised avenue, or walk, over a mile in length, extendin
. Fifteen minutes brought us to the River Lee; and now, with the cit
eensward, birds piping in the hedges, and such hedges, and laburnums, and clambering ivy, and hawthorn, the air perfumed with blossoms, the blue sky in the background pierced by the turrets of an old edifice surrounded by tall trees, round which wheeled circles of cawing rooks; the little cottages we passed, half shrouded in beautiful
nd we witnessed Pat in all his national glory. A newly-arrived American cannot help noticing the deference paid to caste and position; we, who treat Irish servants and laborers so
very face in America. In Ireland he accepts a shilling with gratitude, and invocation of blessings on the donor; in America he condescends to receive two dollars a day! A fellow-passenger remarked that in the old country they were a ra
asant spring day, as it was on that of our excursion. The cars for these rides are hung on springs, are nicely cushioned, and the four passengers
le is a delightfully romantic one, of about six miles; the road, which is smooth, hard, and kept in excellent order, winds upon a side hill of the River Lee, which you see continually flashing in and out in its course through the valley below; every inch of ground appears to be beaut
und and round in the ivy clasp; the hedges are in their light-green livery of spring; there are long reaches of pretty rustic lanes, with fresh green turf under
ing birds, so unlike America: there are linnets, that pipe beautifully; finches, thrushes, and others, that fill the air with their warblings; skylarks, that rise in regular circles high into the air, singing beautiful
ined a ruined castle to be, from books and pictures. It is a fine old building, clad inside and out with ivy, situated near a river of the same name, and on a high limestone rock; it was built in th
iddiness may send you a hundred feet below, it may be imagined that the act of kissing the Blarney Stone is not without its perils. However, that duty performed, and a charming view enjoyed of the rich undulating country from the summit, and inspection made of some of the odd little tur
his broad avenue, with the Nelson Monument, one hundred and ten feet in height, in the centre, and its stately stores on each side, it certainly has a very fine appearance. Here I first visited shops on the other side of the water, and the very first thing that strikes an American is the promptness with which he is served, the civility with which he is treated, the immense assortment and variety of goods, and the effort of the salesmen to do everything to accommodate the purchaser. They
n American; one pattern or color not suiting, dozens of othe
d Atkinson, in College Green, whose front store is a gallery of medals and appointments, as poplin manufacturer to members of royal families for years and years. The ladies of my party were crazy with delight over the exquisite hues, the splendid quality, the low prices-forgetting,
it, madam," said the polite shopman, "o
ill it take
it to you in eig
in London then,
m. We will deliver it to you an
in London, the lady paying on delivery the same rate as charged for similar quality of goods at the store in Dublin, and havin
taken to suit the purchaser, and how any one can g
wrence, Mass., would never think of opening a retail store for the sale of their goods on Washington Street, Boston; and if an English lady failed to find a p
h linen in every variety, Irish bog-wood carving in every conceivable form, bracelets, rings, figures, necklaces, breast-pins, &c. I visited one large establishment, where every species of dry goods, fa
e, the prices lower than in Lond
you going to d
ks it necessary to do. Now, if I can think of a few unconsidered trifles, which correspondents do not write about, but which to
f the hero of the Nile, always attracts the attention of visitors. The great bridges over the Liffey, and the q
these was the presence-chamber, in which is a richly-carved and ornamental throne, frescoed ceilings, richly-upholstered furniture, &c., the whole most strikingly reminding one of those scenes at the theatre, where the "duke and attendants," or the "king and courtiers," come on. It is here the lord lieutenant holds his receptions, and where individuals are "presented" to him as the representative of royalty. The gre
ants from the year 1172 to the present time. The throne of the lord lieutenant in one gallery, and that for the archbishop opposite, are conspicuous. This edifice was completed in 1814, and cost forty-two thousand pounds. It was the first Church of England interior I had seen over the ocean, and its richness and beauty were
o that celebrated cathedral. The square which surrounds it is as much a curiosity in its way as the cathedral itself. The whole
oes, and clothing in every style of dilapidation-till you could scarcely say where the article ended being sold as a coat, and became rags-iron hoops, old furniture, nails, old hats, bonnets, cracked and half-broken crockery. It verily seemed
were crouched over a heap of merchandise, smoking short pipes, and waiting or chaffering with purchasers. Little filthy shops on every hand dealt out Ireland's curse at two-pence a dram, and "Gin," "Choice Spirits Sold Here," "Whiskey,
sexton who had charge of the church-a strong Orangeman, bitterly opposed to the Romish church, and with a strong liking for America, i
r in the English army, and sorra a rise would ye get, exc
ll that remains of that portion of the church, which it is averred was built A. D. 540. This crypt was floored with curious old tiles, over a thousand years old,
ting. Among the monuments in the church, Archbishop Whately's magnificently-carved marble sarcophagus, surmounted by his full-length effi
ina British regiments, with the flags they carried from 1852 to 1857 in their campaigns. Upon the wall was suspended the cannon shot that killed Sc
seemed to the Prince of Wales, when, at the review he attended on Boston Common, he politely assented to the remark of a militia officer, that "this great area" (the Common p
ich are grouped in twos, threes, or clusters, for landscape effect, and the turf beneath them thick, green, and luxuriant; and then, again, there are rustic, country-like roads, shady dells, and rustic paths in the beautiful park; a
oats, of immense power, said to be the strongest and swiftest in Great Britain, and run at the rate of sixteen miles an hour. Fortunately, the passage was comparatively a smooth one, and we disembarked in good condition upon the opposite shore, where we took train for Chester. An English railway carriage-its form is famil
force ride backwards, and the four are placed so as to stare directly at their opposite neighbors,-sometimes unpleasant, if all are not acquainted, especially at lunch time, &c. Then, in the English carriage, four persons only of the eight can get a fair view of the scenery, and two of these ar
-class car is more luxurious, upholstered more plentifully, supplied with racks for light baggage, and curtains at the windows. The English have not even reached the improvement of the sliding blind, which we have in America, so useful in excluding the sun's rays and admitting the air, the substitute being a flapping silk curtain. The second-class car has no curtain or shade to the window whatever. The
ried every other thing he can think of as a substitute, and finds he can get nothing so simple and effectual, he will adopt it; and then it will be claim
o occupies the place of the American conductor, but by no means fills it, is always recognizable by his uniform; and at the stations, the numerous porters which it is necessary for the company
as to simply carry you over their road; and the ignorance of some of the under employés was positively amazing. Seated in the carria
owns on the back of your railroad check; no shout of "Passengers for Chester! Chester!" when the train stopped; and the guard
ve to know yourself, and look out and have the railway porter get your luggage (not baggage) off, or it wil
one can get under the seat is free; and it is astonishing what big valises some men
ot stolen is, that there is a law here which punishes thieves, and doe
is about a third higher than the second. A third class is still cheape
e means to pay for them, the opportunity of enjoying them; and it does not force the poor man, the laborer or emigrant, to ride in a rich
expensive routes, that those riding in first-class carriages are "first-class" people, and the guard's manner to the passengers in the different
on in this compar
-class: "Tick
ow, then, tickets. Loo
he is allowed to take almost any amount of small luggage into the car with him, much of which would be exclud
the compartments. Call the guard to the window, put your hand in your pocket, looking him in the eye significantly. He will c
e so,
and by a dozen ingenious subterfuges keeps you free from strangers, so much that you betray yourself to him as an American by giving him another shilling at your journey's end; and, althou
kept in excellent order. The waiting-rooms are divided into first, second, and third class, and the door opening upon the platform is not opened until a certain time before the train starts. Porters in uniform take the luggage to the train, a
e have the name of the station sown in dwarf flowers upon the bank outside, presenting a very pretty appearance in spring and summer, and contras
of fifty miles an hour through the great slate-quarrying district and Bangor, past the magnificent suspension bridge over Menai Straits, by the romantic old castle of Conway, with its shattered battlements and turrets looking down at the sea, which dashes up its foam-c
looked as though we had got into a set scene at the theatre, representing a street in Windsor for Falstaff and the Merry Wives to appear in; houses built in 1500, or years before, the street or sidewalks passing right under some of them; quaint old oddities of architecture, with curious inscriptions in abbreviated old English on their
sandstone looking as though time had sand-papered it with gritty hail and honeycombed its stones with melting rains; but the whole was surrounded with a mellow, softened beauty of groined arches, beautiful curves, dreamy old cloisters, and quaint carving, that invested even the ruined portion with a hallowed beauty. The stained-glass windows,
th occasional openings, whence the meek-eyed sisterhood could hear service below without being seen themselves as they came from their quiet cloisters near at hand, a quadrangle of one hundred and ten feet squ
crypt, where the massive Gothic pillars, that support the pile, still in perfect preservation
ist with wonder. Fancy churches five times as large as ours, and the height inside from sixty to one hundred feet from the stone floor to the arched ceiling, lighted with glorious great windows of stained glass, upon which the stories of the Bible are told in colored pi
regiment on the field of Waterloo; and it was interesting for me to grasp with my sacrilegious Ame
sh, and sentenced him to be burned for heresy. The seats of the judges and chair of the accused are still preserved and shown
safety against the Danes in 800. It was well kept, and ruled by abbots, and its history well
ording a delightful promenade and prospect of the surrounding country. The walls are squarely built of a soft red freestone, something like that used for our "brown stone front" houses, though apparently not so hard a material, an
.
s built
of the Britons, e
ns defeated un
uilt by daughter o
sment for repa
ter mustered his troo
ary forces made a br
tower King Charles I. stood in 1645, and witnessed the defeat of his army on Rowton Moor, four miles off, then a barren field, but now a smiling plain of fields and cottages, looking very unlike a barren moor, or the scene of a sanguinary combat. In this old tower a curious, antiquary sort of old fellow keeps a motley collect