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Chapter 4 Departure from Memphis - Ohio River Louisville -

Word Count: 3173    |    Released on: 18/11/2017

or banished Indians were wont to call the Mississippi. The company on board was wonderfully like what we had met in coming from New

n some degree relieve the sameness of the thousand miles of vegetable wall. But we were now approaching the river which is emphatically called "the beautiful," La Belle Riveriere of the New Orleans French; and a few days took us, I trust for ever, out of that murky stream which is as emphatically called "the deadly;" and well does it seem to merit the title; the air of its shores is mephitic, and it is said that nothing that ever sunk beneath its muddy surface was known to rise again. As truly does "La Belle Riviere" deserve its name; the Ohio is bright and clear; its banks are continually varied, as it flows through what is called a rolling country, which seems to mean a district that cannot .shew a dozen paces of level ground at a time. The primaeval forest s

we almost learnt to rival our neighbours at table in their voracious rapidity of swallowing, so eager were we

there one in which we did not hear of some member who had "lately died of the fever." - They are all subject to ague, and though their dw

d have liked to pass some months there for the purpose of exploring the beautiful country in its vicinity. Frankfort and Lexington are both towns worth visiting, though from their being out of the way places, I never got to either. The f

travel by land to Louisville, where they find other vessels ready to receive them for the remainder of the voyage. We were spared this inconvenience by the water being too high for the rapid to

exclusion thence is of no recent date; Kentucky has been longer settled than the Illinois, Indiana, or Ohio, and it appears not only more highly cultivated, but more fertile and more picturesque than either. I have rarely seen richer pastures than those of Kentucky. The forest trees, where not too crowded, are of magnificent growth, and the crops ar

ns a city of striking appearance; it wants domes, towers, and steeples; but its landing-place is noble, extending for more than a quarter of a mile; it is we

the table d'hote; but when the dining-room door was opened, we retreated with a feeling of dismay at seeing between sixty and seventy men

told us his boy should be our guide through the city, and shew us what we sought; we accordingly set out with him, and he led us up one street, and down another, but ev

activity, and began knocking regularly at every door we passed, enquiring if the house was to be let. It was impossible

m, I ordered tea in my own chamber. A good-humoured Irish woman came forward with a sort of patronising manner, took my hand, and said, "Och, my honey, ye'll be from the old country. I'll see you will have your tay all to yourselves, honey." With this assurance we retired to my room, which was a handsome one as to its size and

raw, and sundry sweetmeats of brown sugar hue and flavour. We took our tea, and were enjoying our family talk, relative to our future arrangements, whe

f you ill?

we are all quite w

n these terms; we have no family tea-drinkings here, and you m

reply, but I ventured a sort of apologistic hint, that we w

manners, and we don't wis

bled the inn keeper therein immortalized, who made his guests eat, drink, and sleep, just where, when, and how he pleased. I

y to decency and comfort. No pump, no cistern, no drain of any kind, no dustman's cart, or any other visible means of getting rid of the rubbish, which vanishes with such celerity in London

t it is the middle. I expect you don't know as we have got a law what forbids throwing such things at the

ery agreeable to live surrounded by herds of these unsavoury animals, it is well they are so numerous, and so active in their capac

ehind us; for nearly the whole of that time we beheld no other architecture than what our ship and steam-boats had furnished, and excepting at New Orleans, had seen hardly a trace of human habitations. The sight of bricks and mortar was really refreshing, and a house of three stories looked splendid. Of this splendour we saw repeated specimens, and moreover a brick church, which, from its two little peaked spires, is called the two-horned church. But, alas! the flatness of reality after the imagination has been busy! I hardly know what I expected to find in this city, fresh risen from

rably well laid, but it is inundated by every shower, as Cincinnati has no drains whatever. What makes this omission the more remarkable is, that the situation of the place is calculated both to facilitate their construction and render them necessary. Cincinnati is built on the side of a hill that begins to rise at the river's edge, and were it furnished with drains of the simplest arrangement, the heavy sh

intended to consist, when the plan of the city is completed, of a block of buildings fronting north, east, west, and south; each house communicating with an alley, furnishing a back en

er-courses, dry in summer, but bringing down heavy streams in winter, divide these hills into many separate heights, and this furnishes the only variety the landscape offers for many miles round the town. The lovely Ohio is a beautiful feature wherever it is visible, b

able variety. I doubt if any inhabitant of Cincinnati ever mounted these hills so often as myself and my children; but it was rather for the enjoyment of a freer air than for any beauty of prosp

und had been partially cleared; vegetation is impossible elsewhere, and it is this circumstance which makes the "eternal forests" of America so detestable. Near New Orleans the undergrowth of Palmetto and pawpaw is highly beautiful, but in Tennessee, Indiana, and Ohio, I never found the slightest beauty in the forest scenery. Fallen trees in every possible stage of decay, and congeries of leaves that have been rotting since the flood, cover the ground and infect the air. The beautiful variety of foliage affo

inding stream, and two or three miles from its mouth has a brisk rapid, dancing am

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Contents

Chapter 1 Entrance of the Mississippi - Balize Chapter 2 New Orleans - Society - Creoles and Quadroons V Chapter 3 Company on board the Steam Boat - Scenery of the Chapter 4 Departure from Memphis - Ohio River Louisville - Chapter 5 Cincinnati - Forest Farm - Mr. Bullock Chapter 6 Servants - Society - Evening Parties Chapter 7 Market - Museum - Picture Gallery - Academy o Chapter 8 Absence of public and private Amusement - Churche Chapter 9 Schools - Climate - Water Melons - Fourth of Chapter 10 Removal to the country - Walk in the forest - Chapter 11 Religion
Chapter 12 Peasantry, compared to that of England - Early m
Chapter 13 Theatre - Fine Arts - Delicacy - Shaking Qua
Chapter 14 American Spring - Controversy between Messrs. Ow
Chapter 15 Camp-Meeting
Chapter 16 Danger of rural excursions - Sickness
Chapter 17 Departure from Cincinnati - Society on board the
Chapter 18 Departure for the mountains in the Stage - Scene
Chapter 19 Baltimore - Catholic Cathedral - St. Mary's -
Chapter 20 Voyage to Washington - Capitol - City of Washi
Chapter 21 Stonington - Great Falls of the Potomac
Chapter 22 Small Landed Proprietors - Slavery
Chapter 23 Fruits and Flowers of Maryland and Virginia - Co
Chapter 24 Journey to Philadelphia - Chesapeak and Delaware
Chapter 25 Washington Square - American Beauty - Gallery
Chapter 26 Quakers - Presbyterians - Itinerant Methodist
Chapter 27 Return to Stonington - Thunderstorm - Emigrant
Chapter 28 American Cooking - Evening Parties - Dress -
Chapter 29 Literature - Extracts - Fine Arts - Educatio
Chapter 30 Journey to New York
Chapter 31 Reception of Captain Basil Hall's Book in the Un
Chapter 32 Journey to Niagara - Hudson
Chapter 33 Niagara - Arrival at Forsythes
Chapter 34 Return to New York - Conclusion
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