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Chapter 2 KLONDYKE FACTS.

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eports have appeared in the newspapers which are misleading. It has been even stated t

nter cold in Northern New York than I eve

rees below zero, and I suffered no inconvenience. We account for this from the fact that the air is very d

e feet of snow in winter a

ous points that may be necessary with snowshoes. These may be purchased from the Indians

only two hours from sunrise to sunset. The sun rises an

The day there in July is about twenty hours long. The sun rising and setting in the north. A great deal has been

time. The Yukon River is generally clear of ice about May 15. The best p

orking through the winter. The rainy season commences in

eet of snow is

hat accumulates on the coast and the ranges in the i

the depth of snow as far down as the Yukon, S

itled "Klondyke Facts" I deal more l

the miners have left for Klondyke, not being satisfied with the pay dir

le Creek, is now practically exhausted as a mining

ered very quickly along this region as it is certain that

ry is teeming wi

specially valuable for steamers on the various ri

llous discoveries in this territory, usually thought to be only a lan

ng gold in occasional places in this territory, but from the poverty

in this territory. It is safe to say that not 2 per cent. of

done on the Northwest territory, whi

t is my opinion that the most valuable discoveries will be further east and south of

VER AND ITS

British Columbia, meets with the Lewes River, which heads in southeastern Alaska. This point of confluence is at Fort Selkirk, in the Northwest Territory, about 125 miles south-east of the Klondyke. The Yukon proper is 2,044 miles in length. From Fort Selkirk it flows north-west 400 miles, just touching the Arctic circle; thence southward for a distance of 1,600 miles, where it empties into Behring Sea. It drains more than 600,000 square miles of territory, and discharges one-third more water into Behring Sea than does the Mississippi into the Gulf of Mexico. At its m

2,000 square miles, of which 150,768 square miles are included in the watershed of the Yukon. Illustrating this, so that it may appeal with definiteness to the reader, i

voyager. The banks are fringed with flowers, carpeted with the all-pervading moss or tundra. Birds countless in numbers and of infinite variety in plumage, sing out a welcome from every treetop. Pitch your tent where you will in midsummer, a bed of roses, a clump of poppies and a bunch of bluebells will adorn your camping. But high above this paradise of almost tropical exuberance giant glaciers sleep in the summit of the mountai

British territory. It covers an area of some 50,000 square miles. But so far the infinitely richest spot lies some one hundred miles east of

the Yukon basin in the summer season, but

that name. In dressing or undressing, it has a pleasant habit of detecting any bare spot in the body and biting out a piece of flesh, leaving a wound which a few days later looks like an incipie

to the general terms of the survival of the fittest and the growth of muscles most used to the detriment of others,' says the lieutenant in an unusual burst of

for the following valuable informa

st of the water shed of the Mackenzie River; most of it is drained by the Yukon River and its trib

he far north. In 1869 the Hudson's Bay Company's officer was expelled from Fort Yukon by the United States Government, they haying ascertained by astronomical observations that the post was not located in British territory. The officer thereupon ascended the Porcupine to a point which was suppose

trader at Fort Selkirk, with Mr. Joseph Ladue under the firm name of Harper & Ladue, and Mr. McQuestion is in the employ of the Alaska Commercial Company at Circle City, which is the distributing point for the vast regions surrounding Birch Creek, Alaska. In 1882 a number of

Mile Creek, is crossed by the same meridian line, that point being situated at a distance of about twenty-three miles from the mouth of the creek. This survey proved that the place which had been selected as the most convenient, owing to the physical conformation of the region, from which to distribute the supplies imported for the various mining camps, and from which to conduct the other business incident to the mining operations-a place si

ts along the river, without regard to the international boundary line or the customs laws and regulations of Canada, such articles of commerce as were required for the prosecution of the fur trade and latterly of placer mining, these being the only two existing industries. With the discovery of gold, however, came the organization of a competing company known as the North American Transportation and Trading Company, having its headquarters in Chicago and its chief trading and distributing post at Cudahy. This company has been engaged in this trade for over three years, and during the past season despatched two ocean steamers from San Francisco to St. Michael, at the mouth of the Yukon, the merchandise from which was, at the last mentioned point, transhipped into river steamers and carried to points inland, b

y Council, during the spring of 1894, despatched Inspector Charles Constantine, of the Northwest Mounted Police Force, accompanied by Sergeant Brown, to Fort Cudahy and the mining camps in its vicinity. The re

uted upon such an extensive scale, situated near to the boundary separating the Northwest Territories from the possessions of the United States in Alaska; and, second, that while such measures as were necessary to that end were called for in the interests of humanity, and particularly for the security and safety of the lives and property of the Can

il other arrangements can be made, all the departments of the government having interests in that region. Particularly he is authorized to perform the duties of Dominion lands agent, collector of customs, and collector of inland revenue. At the same time instructions were given Mr. William Ogilvie, the surveyor referred to as having, with Dr. Dawson, been entrusted with the conduct of the first government expedition

chment was made up as

Commanding Yukon Deta

ckland; Assistant Surg

Corporals; 13

hich country any land occupied for mining or other purposes actually belongs, and in order that the jurisdiction of the courts and officers of the United States and Canada, for both civil and criminal purposes, may be established, that the determination of the 141st meridian west of Greenwich from the point of its intersection with the Yukon, as marked by Mr. Ogilvie in 1887-88, for a considerable distance south of the river, and possibly also for some distance to the north, should be proceeded with at once. Mr.

ANCES, AND T

regions is from Seattle, Washington, to Juneau, Alaska, and then to Dawson City, by the pass

utfit for travellers, and will therefore

his is the minimum sum necessary to pay his fare from Seattle to Juneau, purchase his outfit and

ds. I do not recommend starting before March 15. I will return at that time to

s own packing over the Taiya Pass, it gives him time to do it by starting March 15, as he will then be in June

City, a man should take $1,000 or even more if possible

lux of people, I do not think the advance will be excessive. It has never b

apter. He then loses no time in leaving Juneau for Dyea, taking a small steamboat which runs regularly to this port via the Lynn Canal. Dyea has recently

ut 15 miles. He must now carry his outfit up the Pass, which he generally does in two or more trips according to the weight of

of the Pass, a distance of eight miles-the dis

. He spends one week at Lake Lindeman making his boat and getting ready for the long trip down the waterways to Dawson City, the heart of the Klondyke region. The trip throu

this lake the traveller crosses the boundary bet

e Tagish, twenty miles in length. After leaving Tagish he finds himself in Mud or Marsh Lake, 24 miles long, then

r work, which, while not hazardous, is dangerous from the swift current and from

hree-eighths of a mile in length and one of the most dangerous place

150 feet long. It would be better if the traveller should portage here, the miners having constructed a portage road on the west side and put down roller-ways in some places on which they roll their boats ov

er route, of which he will get full particulars before leaving Dawson; therefore I do not take the time to give a full description of the return trip via the Yukon to St. Michael. He now goes through Lake Labarge-for 31 miles-till he strikes the Lewes River, this taking him down

apids the voyage should be made on the right side of the river, going with the current. These rapids are considered safe

s, he continues on the Lewes River to Fort Selkirk, the trading post of Harper and Ladue, where the Pelly and Lewes, at their j

in the White River. You keep on the White River for ten miles, to the Stewart River, an

y-mile trip on the Yukon, you arrive at Dawson

en much game, if any, as it is growing scarce along that line of river, and very hard to find. The traveller had therefore better make preparation to depend on the

this trip from Juneau to Dawson City, it is perhaps better to give the reader the benefit o

a little boat smaller than the ferry at Ottawa. There were over sixty aboard, all in one room about ten by fourteen. There was baggage piled up in one end so that the floor-space was only about eight by eight. We went ab

and then packed it to Sheep Camp. We reached Sheep Camp about seven o'clock at night, on the Queen's Birthday. A beautiful time

ghs and let them go. There was an awful fog, and we could not see where we were going. Some fellows helped us down with the first load, or there would have been nothing left of us. When we let a sleigh go from the top it jumps about fifty feet clear, and comes down in pieces. We loaded up the sleighs with some of our stuff, about two hundred and twenty-five pounds each, and started across the lakes. The trail was awful, and we waded through water and slush two and th

orning cutting down trees to build a boat. The timber is small, and I don't think we can get more than four-inch stuff. It rained all afternoon, and we couldn't do anything. There are about fifty bo

farther than we have. There was a little saw-mill going here, and they have their lumber sawn. We have it that warm some days here that you would

going through to Dyea to give him this letter, but I don't know how long before I can get any

his in the tent at 11 o'cloc

winter, however, you ha

over the frozen wate

for the great Northwest Territory for the gold fields, I take pl

ways and steamboats, with supply stations at convenient intervals all the way. By this route the gold-fields can be reached in two months or six weeks, and the cost

, the artist who accompanied Mr. Whitney in his journey towards the Barren Lands, and t

om there by stage to Athabasca Landing, 40 miles; then, there is a continuous waterway for canoe travel to Fort Macpherson, at the

LE

o Athabasc

t McMu

hippew

Land

Smi

esolut

rovide

Simps

Wrigl

Norma

ood Ho

acpher

-

al

the way. It is the old Hudson Bay trunk line to the north that has been in use for nearly a century. Wherever there is a lake or a long stretch of deep water river navigation the company has small freight steamers which ply back and forward during the summer between the portage points or shallows. With comparatively little expenditure the company or the G

They will need to take canoes from here, unless they propose to hire Indians with large birch bark canoes to carry them. Birch bark canoes can be secured of any size up to the big ones manned by ten Indians that carry three tons. But birch barks are not reliable unless Indians are tak

Mr. Stringer, the miss

ws that the ice had only

he water route south-e

gion, on Septemb

that it is an organized line of communication. Travellers need not carry any more food than will take them from one Hudson Bay post to the next, and then there is abundance of fish and wild fowl en route. They can also be in touch with such civilization as prevails up there, can always get assistance at the posts, and will have some place to stay

acpherson, and from there on to the Klondyke, as the rest of the route from Edmonto

canoe, about $35 or less; first-class ticket from Hamilton to Edmonton, $71.40; second class, ditto, $40.90; cost of food at Edmonton for three men for two months (should consist of pork, flour, tea and baking-powder), $35; freight on canoe to Edmonton, $23. Total for

ne on the cheap, though Mr. Heming considers it ample for any party starting this summer. Prices will likely rise on the route when the rush begins. If the Hudson Bay people are

ee men over the route. Passengers on the C.P.R. are entitled to carry 600 pounds of baggage. The paddling is all down s

'sturgeon heads.' They are like canal boats, but are punted along and ar

eamers from Dawson City direct to St. Michael via the Yukon and Anvi

prospector as showing the difficulties to o

, July 2

r his own packages. After getting everything ashore the party was organized for ascent of the mountain pass, which at the hardest point is 3,000 feet above sea level. McLeod and his chum, to save time and money too, engaged 35 Indians to pack their supplies over the mountains, but they had to carry their own bedding and grub to keep them on the road. It is fifteen miles to the summit of the pass and the party made twelve miles the first day, going into camp at night tired from climbing over rocks, stumps, logs and hills, working through rivers and creeks and

their goods and hauled for five miles. This was extremely laborious work, and the men were so used up working in the scorching sun that they were compelled to work at nights and sleep during the day. Two days afte

to repeat the experience. He advises all who go in to have their goods packed all

londyke would not be r

ive him the approximate distances to Fort Cudahy,

nd I also give a number of his notes which will be of great value

DISTANCES TO

T. MI

le

co to Dutch

ctoria to Dut

or to St.

el to Cud

AIYA

a to Ta

to Cud

IKINE

to Wran

o Telegrap

reek to Tes

ake to C

ROM HEAD OF

i

navigation, Ta

Taiya R

f Taiya

Lake Lind

ake Linde

Lake Ben

.C. and N.W.T.

Lake Ben

u Crossing (La

Tagish L

Marsh La

Marsh La

Miles Ca

Miles Ca

te Horse Ra

te Horse Ra

a River

ake Labar

ake Labar

oo Rive

mon Riv

almon Ri

ger Rapi

River

River

t Rive

ile Cre

e Principal Mi

elianc

ile Riv

y Line.

tion on the Stikine River and is about 150 miles from Teslin Lake. The Yukon is navigable for steamers from its mouth to Teslin Lake, a distance of

lkat and Klaheela Rivers, he crosses the divide to the Tahkeena River and continues northward over a

ilkat Pass, followed the shore of Lake Arkell and, keeping to the east of Dalton's trail, reached the Yukon just below the R

oo much broken, so that any winter road will have to be overland. A thorough exploration is now being made of all the passes at the head of Lynn Canal and

ways a wind blowing from the sea up Chatham Strait and Lynn Canal, which lie in almost a straight line with each other, and at the head of Lynn Canal are Chilkat and Chilkoot Inlets. The distance from the coast down these channels to the open sea is about 380 miles. The mountains on each side of the water confine the currents of air

hich renders it unsafe for ships calling there. Capt. Hunter told

ore necessary. The survey was made up to the head of the Inlet on the 2d of June. Preparations were then commenced for taking the supplies and instruments over the coast range of mountains to the head of Lake Lindeman on the Lewes River. Commander Newell kindly aided me in making arrangements with the Indians, and did all he could to induce them to be reasonable in their demands. This, however, neither he nor any one else could accomplish. They refused to carry to the lake for less than $20 per hundred pounds, and as they had learned that the expedition was an English one, the second chief of the Chilkoot Indians recalled some memories of an old quarrel which the tribe had w

eight, and the amount the individual was to get for carrying it. They were made to understand that they had to produce these tickets on delivering their packs, but were not told for what reason. As each pack was delivered one of my men receipted the ticket and returned it

tried to get their names, but very few of them would give any Indian name, nearly all, after a little reflection, giving some common English name. My list contained little else than Jack, Tom, Joe, Charlie, &c. some of which were duplicated three and four times. I then found why some of them had pretend

pack, to take me and two of my party over a small creek in his canoe. After putting us across he asked for money, and I gave him half a dollar. Another man stepped up and demanded pay, stating that the canoe was his. To see w

re with me to have attempted to eject them would have been to invite trouble. I am strongly of the opinion that these Indians would have been

t, in order to locate them, and obtain an idea of the general height of the peaks in the coast range. As it does not appear to have been done befo

short and with so little increase in height that with the instrument I had it was inappreciable. From these angles I have computed the height of the summit of the Taiya Pass,[2] above the head of canoe navigation,

23 miles. Messrs. Healy and Wilson, dealers in general merchandise and miners' supplies at Taiya, have a train of pack horses carrying freight fr

reading at the summit, the height of the summit above the lake was found to be 1,237 feet. While making the survey from the summit down to the lake I took the angles of depression of each station from the preceding one, and from these angles I deduced the difference of he

and I concluded that they wished to keep its existence and condition a secret. The Tagish, or Stick Indians, as the interior Indians are locally called, are afraid to do anything in opposition to the wishes of the Chilkoots; so it was difficult to get any of them to join Capt. Moore; but after much talk and encouragement from the whites around, one of them named "Jim" was induced to go. He had been through this pass before, and proved reliable and useful. The information obtained from Capt. Moore's exploration I have incorporated in my plan of the survey from Taiya Inlet, but it is not as complete as I would have liked. I have named this pass "White Pass," in honor of the late Hon. Thos. White, Minister of the Interior, under whose authority the expedition was organized. Commencing at Taiya Inlet

its full effect. The snow also is much deeper there, owing to the quantity which drifts in from the surrounding mountains. On the north side the surface is sloping, and more exposed to the sun's rays. On the south side the timber is of the class peculiar to the coast, and on the north that peculiar to the interior. The latter would grow at a greate

r a wagon road compared with some roads he has seen in British Columbia. Assuming his distances to be correct, and the height of the pass

unhealthy labor, and after the first trip one of them was laid up with what appeared to be inflammatory rheumatism. The first time the party crossed, the sun was shining brightly, and this brought on snow blindness, the pain of which only those who have suffered from this complaint can realize. I had two sleds with me which were made in Juneau specially for the work of getting over the mountains and down the lakes on the ice. With these I succeeded in bringing about a ton and a-half to the lakes, but found that the time it would take to get all down in this way would seriously interfere with the programme arranged with Dr. Dawson, to say nothing of the suffering of the men and myself, and the liability to sickness wh

s had the privilege of doing all the work on the coast side of the mountains, and that one of their number was already working with me unmolested, and likely to continue so, nine of them came over, and in fear and trembling began to pack down to the lake. After they were at work for a few days some of the Chilkoots came out and also started to work. Soon I had quite a number at work and was getting my stuff down quite fast. But this good fortune was not to continue. Owing to the prevailing wet, cold weather on the mountains, and the difficulty of getting through the soft wet snow, the Indians soon began to quit work for a day or two at a time, and to gamble with one another for the

koot and Tagish Inlets, and were then packed over to the head of Lewes River (Lake Lindeman), from where they were used in making the survey of Lewes and Yuko

re used in going down the latter to Peel River, and thence up Mackenzie River 1,400 miles; or, exclusive of railway and ship carriage, they were carried about 170 miles and did about 2,500 miles of work for the expedition,

foot of Lake Lindeman I set some of the p

imber around the upper end of the lake is small and scrubby. My boat was finished on the evening of the 11th of July, and on the 12th I started a portion of the party to load it and go ahead with it and the outfit to the ca?on. They had instructions to examine the ca?on and, if necessary, to carry a part o

prevent the canoes going with the decks on, but, as we had to land every mile or so, the rollers breaking on the generally flat beach proved very trou

n. The rapids below it, particularly the last rapid of the series (called the White Horse by the miners), I found would not be safe to run. I sent two men through the ca?on in one of the canoes to await the arrival of the boat, and to be ready in case of an accident to pick us up. Every man in the party was supplie

of the channel, near the upper end of the ca?on, that renders the passage more difficult. I did not see this rock myself, but got my information from some miners I met in the interior, who described it as being about 150 ya

s circular in form, with steep sloping sides about 100 feet high. The lower part of the ca?on is much rougher to run through than the upper part, the fall be

a sudden drop and the water rashes through at a tremendous rate, leaping and seething like a cataract. The miners have constructed a portage road on the west side, and put down rollways in some places on which to shove their boats over. They have also made some windlasses with which to haul their boats up hill, notably one at t

es below the rapids there is a pretty swift current, but not enough to prevent the ascent of a steamboat of moderate power, and the rapids themselves I do not think would present any serious obstacle to the ascent of a good boat. In very high water warping might be required. Six miles below these rapids are what are known as 'Rink Rapids,' This is simply

ount of the many delays I had met with on the coast range. These miners also gave me the pleasant news that the story told at the coast about the fight with the Indians at Stewart River was false, and stated substantially what I have already repeated concerning

used me a great deal of uneasiness on the way down the river, as it was arranged between us in Victoria that I was to take with me provisions for his party to do them until their return to the coast. The doctor was so much behind the time arranged to meet me that he determined to start for the coast at once. I therefo

of a day trying to ascend this river, but found it impracticable, on account of the swift current and shallow and very muddy water. The water is so muddy that it is impossible to see through one-eighth of an inch of it. The current is very strong, probably eight miles or more per hour, and the numerous bars in the bed are constantly changing place. After trying for several hours, the base m

ng information from a miner, named McDonald, about the country up that river. McDonald had spent th

ed on the 1st of Septemb

watka) on the 7th. In t

e River there were sev

ver. I then made a survey of the Forty Mile River up to the ca?on. I found the canon would be difficult of ascent, and dangerous to descend, and therefore, concluded to defer further operations until the winter, and until after I had determined the longitud

hed the survey to that point on the 14th. I then spent two days in examining the valley of the river in the vicinity of the

of the river bank, on both sides, I found only one tree as large as 18 inches. I mention this fact to give an idea of the size of the trees along the river in this vicinity. I had this stump enlarged by firmly fixing pieces on the sides so as to bring it up to the requisite size. This done, I built around the stump a small transit house of the

, ITS AFFLUENT STREAMS,

n received, a more detailed description of the Lewes River, i

and between it and Lake Lindeman, there is only about three-quarters of a mile of river, which is not more than fif

to have mistaken for a river, and named Wheaton River. This arm is wider than the other arm down to that point, and is reported by Indians to be longer and heading in a glacier which lies in the pass at the head of Chilkoot Inlet. This arm is, as far as seen, surrounded by high mountains, apparently much

$100 per M. Boats 25 feet long and 5 feet beam are $60 each. Last year the ice broke up in the lake on the

lake, apparently reaching to the ca?on, or a short distance above it. This may have been originally a course for the waters of the river. The bottom of the valley is wide and sandy, and covered with scrubby timber, principally poplar and pitch-pine. The waters of the lake empty at the extreme no

een Lake Bennet and Tagish Lake constit

rise abruptly from the water's edge. At the l

; it is not deep, but is navigable for boats drawing 5 or 6 feet of water; it is sepa

o Lake Bennet on the west side, a short distance north of the fork, and another at the e

uld navigate the lake. The land between the lakes along this channel is low, swampy, and covered with willows, and, at the stage in which I saw it, did not rise more than 3 feet above the water. The

e Windy Arm. One of the Tagish Indians informed me they called it Takone Lake. Here the lake expands to a width of about two miles for a distance of some thr

iderable length, as it can be seen for a long distance, and its valley can be traced through the mountains

nsive than the various names given them by travellers. These waters collectively are the fishing and hunting grounds of the T

ite a distance out in the lake there was not more than 5 feet of water. The members of my party who were in charge of the large boat and outfit, went down the east side of the lake and reported the depth about the same as I found on the west side, with many large rocks.

be agreed, many of them calling the lower part of Tagish or Bove Lake "Mud Lake," on account of its shallowness and flat muddy shores, as seen along the west side, the side nearly always travelled, as it is more sheltered from the prevailing southerly winds. The term "Mud Lake" is, however, not applic

ong, and averages 150 to 200 yards in width, and, as already mentioned, is deep, except for a short distance at the head. On it are situated the only Indian houses to be found in the interior with any pretension to skill in construction. They show much more labor and imitativeness than one knowing anything about the Indian in his native state would expect. The plan is evidently taken from the Indian houses on the coast, which appear to me to be a poor

went along, except where I had reason to think it shallow, and there I always tried with my paddle. I did not anywhere find bottom with this, which shows tha

Bennet, and the Takone or Windy Arm of Tagish Lake, each about fifteen miles in length, and the Taku Arm of the latter lake, of unknown length, but probably not less than thirty miles

ley, as seen from the westerly side of the lake, but the stream is apparently unimportant. Another small stream, apparently only a creek, enters the south-east angle of the lake. It is not proba

t, as it is so near the source of the waters flowing northwards. However, this is a question that can only be decided by a proper exploration. The ca?on I have a

hen about half a mile of smooth water, following which are the White Hor

o make this part of the river navigable it will be no easy task to overcome the obstacles at this point; but a tr

y-seven and a half miles, is all smooth water, with a strong current. The average width is about 150 yards. There is no impediment to navigation other than the swift current, and t

e indefinite information about this river, from an Indian who happened to meet me just below its mouth, but I could not readily make him understand me, and his replies were a compound of Chinook, Tagish, and sign

kat Indians as a means of reaching the interior, but never b

picions of strangers, and it takes some time, and some knowledge of their language, to overcome this suspicion and gain their confidence. If you begin at once to ask questions about their country, without previously having them understand that you have no unfriendly motive in doing so, they become alarmed, and although you may not meet with a positive refusal to answ

the time kept a watchful eye on us. I noticed that my double-barrelled shot gun was lying at my feet, loaded, and picked it up to unload it, as I knew they would be handling it after landing. This alarmed them so much that it was some time before they came in, and I don't think they would have come ashore at all had they not h

ffect them. A sojourn of two or three days with them and the assistance of a common friend would do much

six miles of it maintaining the latter width. The survey was carried along the western shore, and while so engaged I determined the width of the upper wide part by triangulation at two points, the width of the narrow middle part at three points, and the width of the lower part

sula I cannot understand, as it is well out in the lake; the nearest point of it to the western shore is upwards of half a mile distant, and the extreme width of the lake here is not more than five miles, which includes the depth of the deepest bays on

the outlet of the lake. Dr. Dawson has noted it and its peculiarities. His remarks regarding it will be found on

mplain of much detention owing to this cause, and certainly I cannot complain of a lack of wind while I was on the lake. This lake was named after one Mike Labarge, who was engaged by the Western Union Telegraph Company, exploring the river and adjacent country for the purpose of connecting Europe and America by telegraph through British Columbia, and Alaska, and across Behring Strait to Asia, and thence to Europe. This exploration took place in 1867, but it does not appear t

ain turns sharply to its general direction. The current around this curve and for some distance below it-in all four or five miles-is very swift. I timed it in several places and found it from six to seven miles an hour. It then moderates to four or five, and continues so until the Teslinto

outh to make any measurement to determine the relative size of the rivers; but on his way out Dr. Dawson made these measurements, and his report, before referred to, gives the following values of the cross sections of each stream: Lewes, 3,015 feet; Teslintoo, 3,809 feet. In the same connection he states that the Lewes appeared to be about 1 foot above its lowest summer level, while the Teslintoo appeared to be at its lowest level. Assuming this to be so, and t

by some means heavy freight can be brought over the coast range to the head of the river. Indeed, owing to the difficulties attending access and transportation, the great drawback to the entire Yukon district at present is the want of heavy mining machinery and the scarcity of s

the Teslintoo changes completely the character of the river below the junction, and a person coming up the river would, at the forks, unhesitatingly pronounce the Teslintoo the

the coast, passing by way of the Taku River. He said it took four days when they had loads to carry, from the head of canoe navigation on the Teslintoo to salt water on the Taku Inlet; but when they come light they take only one to two days. He spoke also of a stream entering the large lake from the east which came from a distance; but they did not seem to know much about it, and considered it outside their country. If their time intervals are approximately accurate, they mean that there are about 200 miles of good river to the first lake, as they ought easily to make 25 miles a day on the river as I saw it. The lake tak

what he was speaking about, I got him to sketch the river and lake,

ther miner, who had spent most of the summer on the ri

anything about, but describe a large bay on the east side of the lake, into which a river of considerable size entered. This river occupies a wide valley, surrounded by high mountains. They thought this river must head near Liard River. This account dif

me in prospecting, and then recrossed to the sea. This man had been at Forty Mile River, and I heard from the miners there his account of the appearance of the lake, which amounted generally to this: The

two, and offers easy and uninterrupted navigation for more than double the distance which the Lewes does, the ca?on being only ninety miles above the mo

ow the junction, gives upward of 2,200 miles of river, fully two-thirds of whi

this river in the neighborhood of Marsh Lake tending to show th

which the Lewes preserves a generally uniform width and current. For a few miles below the Teslintoo it is a little over the ordinary width, b

was more fortunate, and met a man who had spent most of the summer of 1887 prospecting on it. His opinion was that it might be navigable for small stern-wheel steamers for many miles. The valley, as seen from the mouth, is wide, and gives one the impression of bei

0 miles from the mouth. This lake was estimated to be four miles in length; another lake about 12 miles above this was estimated to be twenty-four miles long, and its upper end distant only about eight

early west for some distance. Its course between here and its confluence with the Pelly is north-west, and, I may add, it preserves this general direction down to the confluence with the Porcupine. Th

devote to it on my way down; consequently I cannot say more than that I have no reason to doubt that a channel giving six feet or more of water could easily be found. Whenever, in the main channel, I had reaso

f a brownish hue; there is not much current at the mouth, nor as far as can be seen up the stream. The valley which, from the mouth, does not appear extensive, bears north-east for some distance, when it appears to turn more to t

orth-west for seven miles, and then makes a short, sharp turn to the south and west around a low sandy point, which

sed of a light gray stone. What the character of this rock is I could not observe, as I saw it only from the river, which is about a quarter of a mile distant. On the westerly side of the river there are

, being not more than one hundred and twenty feet wide at the mouth, and only a few inches deep. The valley, as

are islands. It is serpentine in its course most of the way, and where the Nordenskiold joins it is very crooked, running several times under a hill, nam

and width, with a current from four to five miles per hour. I have already described Five Finger Rapids; I do not think they will prove anything more than

rong-probably six miles per hour-but the water seems to b

o great importance, the westerly half of the stream only being obstructed. The eas

ver been my lot to meet. It is needless to say that none of our party understood anything they said, as they could not speak a word of any language but their own. I tried by signs to get some information from them about the stream they were fishing in, but failed. I tried in the same way to learn if there were any more Indians in the vicinity, but again utterly failed. I then tried by signs to find out how many days it took to go

-miles, no streams of any importance enter the Lewes; in fact, with

About five miles above Pelly River there is another lake-like expanse filled with islands. The river here for three or four miles is nearly a mile wide, and so numerous and close are the islands that it is impossible to tell when floating among them where the s

alf a mile wide, and here too there are many is

bout two-thirds being ten feet deep, with a current of about four and three-quarter miles per hour; the remai

ar up as could be seen. Dr. Dawson made a survey and examination of this river, which wi

int of land between the two rivers, but this location proving untenable on account of flooding by ice jams in the spring, it was, in the season of 1852, moved across the river to where the ruins now stand. It appears that the houses composing the post were not finished when the Indians from the coast on Chilkat and Chilkoot Inlets came down the river t

ce the coast Indians arrived in the early morning, and surprised Mr. Campbell in bed. They were not at all rough with him, but gave him the privilege of leaving the place within twenty-four hours, after which he was informed that he was

e and overtake them, but to this Mr. Campbell would not consent. Had they done so it is probable not many of the raiders would have escaped, as the superior local knowledge of the nativ

s way up from Fort Yukon, which he turned back. He then ascended the Pelly, cro

nce.' In June, 1843, he descended the Pelly to its confluence with the larger stream, which he named the 'Lewes.' Here he found many families of the native Indians-'Wood Indians,' he called them. These people conveyed to him, as best they could by word and sign, the dangers that would attend a further descent of the river, representing that the country below theirs was inhabited by a tribe of fierce cannibals, who would assuredly kill and eat them. This so terrified h

that of the people he was coming among, and his statements are more explicit and detailed. Everywhere he came in contact with them they manifested, first, dread of himself and party, and when friendship and confidence were established they nearly always tried to detain him by representing the people in the direction he was going

ion of such unknown, cruel people lurks in the minds of many of the Indians. It would be futile for me to t

represented the United States Government, to evacuate the post at Fort Yukon, he having found that it was west of the 141st meridian. The post was occupied by the Company, however,

erican Transportation and Trading Company, plying the Yukon and its t

ch point, notwithstanding the distance and difficulties in the way, many of the Indians on the Yukon make a trip every two or three years to procure goods in exchange for their furs. The clothing and blankets brought in by the Hudson's Bay Company they claim are much better

he date of this repo

ing Company, better kno

ny," has established a

ve

ever had been such a place. I enquired of Mr. Reid, who was in the Company's service with Mr. Campbell at Fort Selkirk, and after whom I thought, possibly, the place had been called, but he told me he knew of no such post, but that there was a small

he river where there are not one or more in sight. Many of them are of considerable size, and nearly all are well timbered. Bars are also numerous, but almost all are composed of gravel, so that navigators will not have to

rse of the river is a little north of west; it then turns to the north,

hifting sand-bars, the main volume of water being confined to a channel not more than one hundred yards in width. The current is very strong, c

discoloration of its waters. The volcanic ash appears to cover a great extent of the Upper Yukon basin drained by the Lewes and Pelly Rivers.

ch labor and time, altogether out of proportion to the importance of the end sought, and therefore abandoned it. The valley as far as can be seen from the mouth, runs about due west for a

rise somewhere near the head of Forty Mile River; and if so, its length is not at all in keeping with the volume of its discharge, when compared with the known length and discharge of other rivers in the territory. Mr. Harper mentioned an extensive flat south of the mountain range spoken of, across which many high mountain peaks could be seen. One of these he thought must be Mount St. Elias, as it overtopped all the others; but, as Mount St. Elias is about one hundred and eighty miles distant, his conclusion is not tenabl

bars. The survey was carried down the easterly shore, and many of the channels passed through barely afforded water enough to flo

north sides in steps or terraces to distant hills of considerable height. The river half a mile or so above th

h-east, which appears to be Beaver River, as marked on the maps of that part of the country. From the head of this stream he floated down on a raft taking five days to do so. He estimated his progress at forty or fifty miles each day, which gives a length of from two hundred to two hundred and fifty miles. This is probably an over-estimate, unless the stream is very crooked, which, he stated, was not the case. As much of his time would be taken up in prospecting, I should call thirty miles or less a closer estimate of his progress. This river is from fifty to eighty yards wide a

vel hills to the west and north; he crossed them to the north and found a river flowing northward. On this he embarked on a raft and floated down it for a day or two, thinking it would turn to the west and join the Stewart, but finding it still continuing north, and acquiring too much volume to be any of the branches he had

of what he called Mayhew Lake, and crossing this got to the

atershed as small and open. He was alone in this unknown wilderness all summer, not seeing even any of the natives. There are few men so constituted as to be capable of i

etween a half and three quarters of a mile, but there are many expansions where it is over a mile in breadth; however, in these places it cannot be sai

at one time a trading p

& McQue

sition with what has been called Sixty Mile Creek, which was supposed to be about that distance above Fort Reliance, but it does not agree with descri

me side; it agrees with the descriptions of Sixty Mile Creek, and I have so marked it on my

d miles long, very crooked, with a swift current a

o far made in the interior since 1894 have been upon these creeks, especially has this been the case upon the two first mentioned.

r a distance of 30 miles, then portaged across to the heads of

le River a small distance, making a short portage to Sixty Mile River and running down with its

low Sixty Mile. It is reported to be rich in gold, but owing

s located, it is the headquarters for upwards of 100 miner

of the creek; both, of which are in charge of Mr. J. Ladue, one of the partners of

ll river about forty yards wide at the mouth, and shallow; the water is clear and transparent, and of beautiful blue color. The Indians catch

d although it was located only a few months ago it is the scene of great activity. Very rich de

g so beautifully clear I thought it must come through a large lake not far up; but as far as he had gone no lakes were seen. He said the current was comparatively slack, with an occasi

long distance to hunt, but I could learn nothin

east. It is thirty to forty yards wide at the mouth, very shallow, and for half a mile up is one contin

having fewer islands and being narrower, averaging four to six hundred yards wide, and the current being more regular. Thi

more than one hundred miles, and speak of it there as quite a large river. They say that at that distance it has reached the level of the plateau, and the country adjoining it they describe as flat and swampy, rising very little above the river. It is only a short distance acro

e townsite the town of Cudahy was founded on the north side of Forty Mile River in the summer of 1892. It is named after a well known member of the North American Transportation and Trading Company. In population and extent of business the town bears comparison with its neighbor across the river. The opposition in trade has been the means of very materially reducing the c

t this point several miners have been drowned by their boats being upset in collision with these rocks. It is no great distance to either shore, and one would think an ordinary swimmer would have no difficulty in reaching land; but the coldness of the water soon benumbs a man completely and renders him powerless. In the summer of 1887, an Indian, from Tanana, with his family, was coming down to trade at the post at the mouth of Forty Mile River; his canoe struck on these rocks and upset, and he was thrown clear of the canoe, but the woman and children clung to it. In

y smooth, with swift current and an occasional ripple. The amount of water discharged by this stream

e general character as between Fort Reliance and Forty Mile, the g

This was named by Schwatka 'Roquette Rock,' but is known to the traders as Old Wom

n legend, of which the following is th

e he lives with, something akin to the wise men or magi of olden times in the East. In this powerful being's locality there lived a poor man who had the great misfortune to have an inveterate scold for a wife. He bore the infliction for a long time without

effort and gave her a kick that sent her clean across the river. On landing she was converted into the mass of rock which remains to this day a memorial of her viciousness and a warning to all future scolds. The metamorphosis was effected by the Tshaumen, but how the necessary force was acquired to send her across the river (here a

direct from the Indians, but repeated by men who have little or no knowledge of the

eep Creek, but as there is another stream further down the river, called by the same name, I have named it Coal Creek. It is five miles below Forty Mile, and co

*

of the cross section measured is 22,268 feet, the sectional area of the Teslintoo, as determined by Dr. Dawson and already referred to, is 3,809 feet; that of the Lewes at the Teslintoo, from the same authority, is 3,015 feet. Had the above cross-section been reduced to the level a

d current, the latter being in the deep channel at the east side, when I tried it in September, approximately 4.8 miles per hour; while

of bars and islands for some miles, but here I did not have an opportunity to determine the rate of the current before the river froze u

d to be strong and much the same as that above; from the Porcupine down, for a

s the part near the confluence with the Porcupine, which has evidently been a lake in past ages but is now filled with

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